3 August 2017

WILD AT HEART

Ilona Szwarc, Camree and Chaynee, Canadian, Texas, 2012.

We’ve gone from workhorses to pleasure horses, from horses for men to horses for women … The world of horses has become a woman’s world.

– Yann Arthus-Bertrand

A horse is a horse, of course, of course not. Last weekend in May this year, a band of twenty-five auspicious, advantaged and likewise (unsurprisingly) ideologically possessed women galloped, neighed, scratched their “hooves” in the dust and peeved their way through Stockholm during a two-hour-long protest against the “Patriarchy”. “Our performance is a fun way to confront it [by posing] viewers the question of how women can occupy the public domain without being objectified,” the City Horse choreographer explained to the Svenska Dagbladet daily. “Horses are a symbol of power, but at the same time they represent equestrianism and dance – both female activities which are often marginalised. And just like the female body, horses can symbolise both the restrained and the wild.” The cortège gaited around centuries-old equine sculptures and the insignificant lives of (white) males of flesh and blood.

Like Roland Barthes wrote in Mythologies, “toys always mean something”. So really, what is this thing about women and girls and the second sex, the horse? “We press against the striking stallion, throw our arms around his neck – we kiss him on the nose – and tell him how beautiful and gallant he is. It is all so innocent – and yet we are learning about the elusiveness of affection, about beauty and longing,” as AM Homes swoons in Jill Greenberg’s starkly carnal and so elegant photobook Horses from 2012. “At night we dream of rescue, of being delivered from our lives to this more beautiful, more perfect place, the dark knight charging through the forest. The unicorn under a full moon. The raven-haired woman riding bareback by the sea. This is a world where good triumphs over evil.”

When all the handshakes between the races of the Universe are over and done with to Bowie’s “Space Oddity” in Luc Besson’s Valerian and the City of a Thousand Planets (2017) we are four hundred years into a future on the paradisiacal planet of the oh-so beautiful, androgynous Pearls and their companionable, fabulous pets the Mül converters (as they are called), a creature that poops mother of pearl and who has the inner power to restore a pastel Eden. Sophie Mörner is the curator of Like a Horse at Fotografiska in Stockholm and she has dotted the corners of her show with alchemic horse manure. “The exhibition is more than an exhibition and it represents everything I wanted it to be” is her one comment. Mörner’s selection of equine photography is generous and playful, concentrated and quietly passionate. She brings us the fellowship, the freedom and debauchery of equestrianism, the legacy and contemporariness of the horse, and the silver spurs of identity politics and its miserable luxury of solipsism.

“Horses once held a slightly mystical connotation for man. Physically, with their perfect movement, they seemed to contain an element of divinity. Seated astride them one could move at great speed – almost fly. What does that mean now to the motorway driver? Yet there is a difference, and perhaps when we have come to terms with scientific advancement we shall gain a better sense of values. Hopefully, this might bring a new confidence – another rebirth bringing with it new creative artistic activity,” suggests John Baskett in his book The Horse in Art. “There is, on the other hand, an aspect of the animal that has appealed to the more sophisticated requirements of human nature – the need for excitement, for aesthetic satisfaction and as an expression of spiritual aspiration. To be seated on a horseback, five feet above contradiction, brings authority, to gallop hell-for-leather with the wind in you face lends the rider wings, as if one with the gods.”

Like a Horse is like that scene in Scorsese’s greatest film Goodfellas (1990) in which the gang is having dinner with Tommy’s mother (played by Catherine Scorsese) who shows them her latest painting with the dogs. Tommy: “I like this one. One dog goes one way and the other goes the other.” Mrs DeVito: “One’s going east, the other’s going west. So what?” So what plenty: Like a Horse is going one way with the choice photography and the great stuff about the romance with this really big pet, about the effort of being present as much as being in touch with what our ancestors knew, and hence raising us to a more commendable level, and certainly about females expressing their own power. And it is going the other way with the demagoguery of the feminist narrative on gender politics – dominance and submission, don’t you know – and the pathological rules of sexist formulae and ghastly old Freud all over again.

Sophie Mörner claims that she wants to undo the clichés of cowboy masculinity. Or something like that. “My focus is to lift the woman and playing with the concept of queerness. For me the horse is both masculine and feminine, dominant and submissive, mastered and wild [italics mine]. But the notion of masculinity in what is widely regarded seen [sic] as a women’s sport or hobby, is interesting to me,” she states on the wall text which is the same as in the Like a Horse book, a smaller but great compilation of the pictures in the show published by Max Ström. As a Manhattan publisher of Capricious magazine with sixteen issues so far and the grand High Tails in 2014 (the Year of the Horse in the Chinese calendar), perhaps Mörner should have known better than to use Jill Greenberg’s words above as if they were her own. This is the curator in the press material: “The culture of equestrianism and horse sports is often vilified. It’s interesting to ponder how this is connected to the fact that it’s a phenomenon that is related to women and girls. I think of this exhibition as a reflection of Western prejudices about ‘the sport for privileged girls’.” Mörner got her first horse when she was ten.

“The horse went into a semi-retirement with a part-time job as a recreational item, a mode of therapy, a status symbol, and a source of pastoral support for female puberty,” writes Ulrich Raulff in his Farewell to the Horse memorial in which he considers horses to be the most noble of creatures, even “more spectacular in their suffering”: “Standing in their stables like living sculptures, they would nod their shaped heads, signalling distrust or suspicion with a twitch of their ear. The horses had their own pasture, to which never a cow would stray, to say nothing of the pigs or geese. No farmer would consider surrounding his horses’ meadow with the barbed wire which was often used to enclose sheep and cattle. For the horses, a bit of wood or a simple electric fence was sufficient to stop them escaping. One does not incarcerate aristocrats. It is enough to remind them of their word of honour.”

One of Ilona Szwarc’s schoolgirl amazons from her excellent Rodeo Girls series (2012) has a full-size cardboard figure of John Wayne in the corner of her bedroom. (Wayne was afraid of needles and horses – so much for that cowboy machismo.) One horse goes one way and the other goes the other in Camree and Chaynee, Canadian, Texas (2012) with these seven-year-old twins astride. Their tiny bodies are not much bigger than the heads of these animals and still they have the clout to master them. It is like Jean Cocteau’s sibylline words one hundred years ago in Cock and Harlequin: “The little girl mounts a racehorse, rides a bicycle, quivers like pictures on the screen, imitates Charlie Chaplin, chases a thief with a revolver, boxes, dances a ragtime, goes to sleep, is shipwrecked, rolls on the grass on an April morning, buys a Kodak, etc …”

Szwarc who grew up behind the Iron Curtain in Warsaw in the 1980s was lucky to have a father who was an airline pilot. In her teens, she spent a year as an exchange student in this small town Canadian on the Texas panhandle where she encountered the rodeo business. During her recent trips to Texas (and to Oklahoma and New Mexico) as an artist living in the States, Szwarc discovered a whole new culture of young girls taking part as professional rodeo contestants. “I found their spiritual and emotional connection with their horses very beautiful. They loved the feeling of being one with the animal,” she told National Geographic (May, 2014). The little women in these powerful small photographs (taken with a large-format camera) are both tender and rough-handed. Mörner: “These girls have a different approach and attitude to femininity and traditional gender roles. Engaged in activities that have historically been reserved for men, they display strength and dominance over the animals.” The reality is that the horse industry in the US generates a far greater share of GDP than Hollywood or the tobacco companies, and that the rodeo business stops at nothing in order to incite the horses for this brutal form of entertainment.

Two girls have written “Love horses!!!” with a marker pen on their forearms in Theresia Viska’s black and white documentary series Stallflickor (Swedish for stable girls), which came out as a photobook in 2006. Viska claims to avouch herself in the “animalism” and the “unbelievable courage” of these “three-apples-tall seamen”. It is true that shovelling manure in a stable isn’t the most glorious assignment and that there are injuries aplenty in dealing with horses and that being on a horse is more dangerous than being on a motorcycle. But women are also more than welcome to play with the concept of queerness when it comes to the grimy, gruelling and hazardous duties that men perform every day and then and always under the yoke of traditional demands and female acquiescence.

Horses can survive almost everywhere and in any climate. But how much human can a horse put up with? In the sensitive documentary Buck (2011), the original “horse whisperer” Buck Brannaman, who was badly abused by his father as a boy, explains that he is “helping horses with people problems”. Craig Cameron’s call in Ride Smart is to “Realise that horsemanship is all about working on yourself, not so much working on the horse. The horse is a rhythmical, balanced, patient, trustworthy and consistent animal. It’s you who needs to develop feel, timing, rhythm, balance, patience, consistency, and understanding.” In The Domestic Horse, Daniel Mills and June McNicholas direct attention to the horse as an anthropomorphic plaything and refer to a 1983 study which reported “that the majority of riders considered their horse to be part of the family and that most related to the horse as if it were a child (although there was a suggestion that male riders more frequently relate to the horse as an adult family member). However, despite this childlike projection, they would confide in it and speak to it as if it were a person of the same age.”

Signe Johannessen has supported her altar to the horse with hay bales. In her “stable” at Fotografiska there is also a video with horses looking at this affectedly dramatic pile of skeleton parts from their own species. I don’t know what this thing is doing in a building dedicated to great photography, but the meta level of the video made me think of the Norwegian children’s film Oskar’s America (2017) in which the gentle village fool Levi takes his white pony – or Horsie as he calls it – to a birthday screening of a film called The White Horse. (Then there is young Oskar himself who dreams of horse riding with his absent mother in Monument Valley.) Mörner: “Providing an opportunity to reflect on the impact of humanity on other species or the concept of race itself, the work highlights issues about prevailing power structures.” I am sure that these unidentified “power structures” do not include the misandria and eugenics of Swedish feminism.

But there are works by thirty artists in Like a Horse and most of it is good to very good. In Ridley Scott’s latest (and mediocre) Alien film Alien: Covenant (2017), one of the Michael Fassbenders delivers a horse tip in space: “Breathe in the nostrils of a horse and he’ll be yours for life.” Perry Ogden, a filmmaker himself, spent two years in the mid 1990s at the Smithfield Horse Fair in Dublin (which takes place the first Sunday every month) to photograph the boys head-to-head with their animals. These intimate pictures, taken against a white background, have something of the mood from The Selfish Giant (2013) with Arbor and Swifty and the horse. When Ogden’s book Pony Kids was released in 1999, he told The Irish Times (February 6) that he was sure “that my early wish for a pony had something to do with my interest in Dublin’s pony kids. And the mixture of cultures. The global culture of Nike and Adidas sportswear, which all the kids were wearing, meeting this local culture of keeping ponies and horses in your backyard.”

Yann Arthus-Bertrand is a French artist and director of nature documentaries who also originated the bestseller The Earth from the Air (which has sold in 2.5 million copies) with those picturesque images from a hot air balloon. “Arthus-Bertrand was the first to photograph pets with the attention devoted to top models,” writes Lara Marlowe in The Irish Times (April 23, 2005), referring to his spiffy photographs of farm animals and their owners at the annual Salon d’Agriculture in Paris. But his most interesting work is found in his book Horses from 2014. Here he creates a kind of indoor situation with his rusty outdoor backdrop for his photographs of people truly wanting to show off their great affluence with their horses – remember the episodes from The Sopranos centred around “Whoever Did This” (2002) with Paulie Gaultieri’s alteration of the painting of Tony Soprano and the racehorse Pie-O-My? Their owners can think whatever they want, but the stars in these pictures are the horses.

Like so many others in Like a Horse, Jill Greenberg is not just crazy about horses but perhaps even more so about the idea and the reality of the sexual control over this powerful yet submissive force. “The horse project is not only a homage to the physique of these sexy beasts but also an exploration of the paradoxical gender identities cast into this unique animal. We see them as masculine, strong, muscular, even phallic. Yet they have been made subservient, so their position in the world relates to the role women continue to occupy,” she argues. “Their heads are remarkably phallic, and I have chosen to exploit this in my photographs. I have long been concerned with ‘exposing the phallus’ in a playful, mocking way. The horse’s neck is presented as confrontational image.” Sorry, but this is like listening to a woman with a purple or blue or green hair colour doing karaoke to “(I Want) Muscles”. So she is tantalising male energies yet lusting for them in the “sexy” (subjugated) Black Stallion?

What Greenberg brings out with expertise, flashes and Photoshop is an absolutely fantastic art aligned with the complicated punch of commercial photography, a mismatch that matches very well. (The ones that Mörner has selected for the show are as libidinal as the Pirelli calendars in the age before political correctness.) She seems to have a grip on the anatomy of the horse, much like the famous horse painter George Stubbs who based his laboured works on his eighteen months in an English country barn near Hull where he dismembered horses for what would result in the publication of The Anatomy of the Horse in 1766. Greenberg has actually nourished the idea to erect a full-size statue to commemorate the memory of Emily Wilding Davidson, a suffragette who walked right into the track at the Epsom Derby in 1913, as the rumble was approaching, to attach a Votes for Women scarf on one of the galloping racehorses – without the slightest consideration for the life and safety of the horses and their jockeys – and who had a fatal bang with King George V’s horse Anmer: “In that one visceral moment, the idea of the horse and the idea of feminism manifested itself for posterity, in a woman’s failed effort to halt the forward motion of the animal of the most powerful man in the land.” Shall we move on?

Thus begins Béla Tarr’s The Turin Horse (2011): “In Turin on January 3, 1889, Friedrich Nietzsche steps out of the door of via Carlo Alberto 6, perhaps to take a stroll, perhaps to go by the post office to collect his mail. Not far from him, or indeed very far removed from him, a cabman is having trouble with his stubborn horse [at piazza Carignano]. Despite all his urging, the horse refuses to move, whereupon the cabman – Guiseppe? Carlo? Ettore? – loses his patience and takes his whip to it. Nietzsche comes up to the throng and that puts an end to the brutal scene of the cabman, who by this time is foaming with rage. The solidly built and full-moustached Nietzsche suddenly jumps up to the cab and throws his arms around the horse’s neck, sobbing. His neighbour takes him home, where he lies still and silent for two days on a divan until he mutters the obligatory last words: ‘Mutter, ich bin dumm,’ [Mother, I am foolish] and lives for another ten years, gentle and demented, in the care of his mother and sisters. Of the horse, we know nothing.”

Alexandra Vogt’s horses – from her book The Dim Feet of White-Maned Desires (2005) – are wounded and uncared-for creatures in weird and gloomy but highly interesting settings in which she plays a girl who never read My Friend Flicka as a child, and who only seems to manifest herself as a sad memory, uncharged, unable to connect. In Sleek magazine (issue 26), Annika von Taube talks about “The moment in which the thought of hurting the horse doesn’t hold the girl back, but rather pushes her forward. The moment in which she begins to feel powerful, for mean reasons, but it doesn’t matter, because she’s good at making herself believe that these beings are much bigger and stronger than her.” Still, Vogt’s “dysfunctional” series of the eerie girl and her dirty horses is like John Lydon’s “This is Not a Love Song”. Of course it is, only a very different one.

“There is something about the outside of a horse that is good for the inside of man” was something that Churchill never spoke. “Early on [horses] taught me to be articulate, assertive and to believe in myself. These are not self-evident characteristics for anyone, especially for a young girl. They also taught me to be empathic, to understand how strong our body language is and to become aware of which signals I send and to be more attentive and sensitive in interpreting theirs,” writes the Swedish elite rider Lisen Bratt Fredricson on the other wall text in the show (which is also in the book); again with that trite saying that life is so much harder for women and girls, again that female chauvinist bromide about masculine glamour and taming this sexy beast between your thighs: “I think of their fantastic, long necks, the rounding of the of the muscles over their backs and buttocks, their large dark eyes and their silky-smooth muzzles. And what I find truly fascinating is the relationship between humans and horses. With its enormous strength the horse could have very easily ignored the will of humans, but we succeeded in taming it. And the horse allowed itself to be tamed.”

Kathleen Herbert’s Stable (2007) is the video work to watch in Like a Horse. In this eight-minute film (shot on 16mm), we hear the clip-clop of hooves and observe the doings of three horses, as through a surveillance monitor, as they spend a night in Gloucester Cathedral. The history behind the piece – with Lord Leven and his anti-Royalist army using the Cathedral as a stable during the English Civil War in the mid 1600s – is good to know but the piece carries itself beautifully in a chimerical dream state. Charlotte Dumas, who presented her book Work Horse in 2015, is from the Netherlands and her horses in the Anima series (2012) are the living residents of Arlington National Cemetery in Washington DC. Their task is to be graceful and to pull the caissons (that were once for the cannons) with the caskets of casualties from US battlegrounds. Makes me think of the skipper’s words to the boy who will die on the Moonstone vessel in Christopher Nolan’s tremendous Dunkirk (2017): “There is no hiding from this, son.”

Anima is the feminine energy in the male, but in portraying these reposed, elegant animals in a near state of sleep, Dumas seems to have focused on “the gap between wakefulness and slumber, a space for dreaming and reverie”. “Animals are at the outer end of our emotional experience […] we need them and use them to catalyse this emotional response,” she told John Mahoney in American Photo (January 8, 2013): “As it evolved it became much more apparent what it really meant to me to photograph these animals, because of course, they are portraits of animals, but they’re really about us. It’s all about our relationship with animals, and also symbolically the relationship between our species, with the human species being very solitary in this world and needing the animals, basically. And it’s about the diminishing existence of animals in our daily life.”

The eight pictures from Hans Silvester’s Fighting Stallions in the Camargue series (1974) bring on the frisky, dancing, almost wild horses, relieved of human obligations. He spent five years with these white animals in the wetland of Camargue and gained their trust with his camera. Silvester was quite an early practitioner of modern equine photography and his book The Horses of Camargue came out in 1976. “Like humans, horses in a band are notorious squabblers. Also like humans, band members fail to thrive without friends and family,” explains Wendy Williams in The Horse: The Epic History of Our Noble Companion, comparing the spectacles in those bands to a Shakespearean drama: “When you watch wild horses and you know their life histories, it’s like following a soap opera. There’s a constant undercurrent of arguing, of jockeying for position and power, of battling over personal space, of loyalty and betrayal. The show never lets up. Alliances are made and broken. Underlings often defy power. Sometimes a horse’s great patience is rewarded and he gets what he wants. Sometimes it isn’t and he doesn’t.”

Leland Stanford was a business magnate and politician who engaged Eadweard Muybridge in 1872 (after Muybridge had just murdered a man) to burn vast sums of money to develop a clever system for motion photography, primarily to prove that a horse is airborne during each stride of the gallop. Muybridge originated a string of great inventions, which forwarded photography and later made motion pictures possible, like fast emulsions, ingenious shutter devices and the trip wires for the wager that was won on June 15, 1878. The three kinetic charts in the show are all from that year and it is always a delight to see his images again, especially the ones with the horses. When American artist Susan Rothenberg’s daughter was born in 1972, Rothenberg suddenly started with her great and many horse paintings loosely based on Muybridge’s sequenced animals. Some of these paintings look like the horsy foetus floating in black space in a series by Tim Flach called Equus (2008).

There are two series by Flach in the show: nine pictures of horses in different headgear that at a first may appear as ceremonial display, but these are mostly protection gear against human conflict such as gas attacks and riots – and then the fascinating Equus (also a book in 2008) in which the embryo sprouts to a foetus and the foetus to a foal. This is colour photography in black and white. These are not the psychedelic 2001-wombs of Lennart Nilsson’s but the magic of life in a purer essence. “I am in awe of nature, but while my subject may be an animal, at the same time I am exploring things to do with what it is to be human,” Flach told the Photoshop website (no date):

“I am aware that the viewer may have already seen a subject intensely and that others have covered it. Part of my challenge is to de-familiarise the subject. I need to make people see the world as a little strange again, with fresh eyes and new insight. Perhaps I do animals as I do because I see so many people shooting wildlife images, going about documentary work with a subject. I am more interested in how we, humans, are involved in this subject: how we are anthropocentric, inevitably putting ourselves at the centre of any understanding of animals. We also respond to them by imposing our behaviours on theirs, and see them as we see ourselves.”

Life magazine photographer Peter Stackpole is famous for his vertiginous photography from the bridge constructions around San Francisco Bay in the 1930s. His mighty exciting pictures in Like a Horse from Atlantic City’s Steel Pier, which was a much bigger thing then, induce another kind of dizziness. They are all from July 1, 1953 and feature a horse and its female rider that fly into a pool of water from a jump tower as tall as twelve to eighteen metres (compare this to the highest plateau on a diving platform which is ten metres). On the ramp there was no way of turning, but according to the greatest name in horse jumping the horses just loved to fly. Her name was Sonora Webster and she was “Blind Venus” to her adoring fans after an accident in 1931 when she smashed her face into the surface of the water, but still went on for another decade despite her handicap. Most of Stackpole’s work was lost in a house fire in 1991, but his wingless Pegasus soars with unflagging resolve.

Completely unnecessary in the show are the really big names and the ones included for readers of Vanity Fair. The picture by Guy Bourdin (if I ever dare to mention his name again) has been on show before at Fotografiska, and Helmut Newton’s little Saddle, Paris (1976) is mostly a variant of the stronger Saddle I (1976) that was in the Newton show and which depicts Gunilla Bergström as a superb cowgirl tacked up with a saddle; in a black bra, cream jodhpurs and riding boots – a ponyplay on a bed at the Lancaster hotel in Paris – and she is looking like a human turtle, uniting Heaven and Earth in a way that sex should be like all the time. Newton explained that “I’ve always liked the idea of cowboys – the way they look, the way they walk, especially in the movies. Why? A cowboy stands in a certain way. He’s got a gun here, a gun there, his hands are always ready to draw. So I make the girls into cowgirls – with their hands ready to reach for the guns.”

There are works by David LaChapelle (featuring a Hollywood celeb) and there are works by the overexposed Martin Parr (British horseracing as a spiritual desert in high-pitched colours) and the true nadir of Herb Ritts (Calvin Klein, a video and a Hollywood celeb). Who in the right mind would care for another picture by Herb Ritts? It would have been great to see Richard Prince’s Cowboys (late 1980s) with the “appropriated” Marlboro Men roaming the West included in Like a Horse. Richard Prince danced to the music of time but his fake cowboys – they started to die one by one from lung cancer – ride into the sunset of eternity.

“Historians have largely neglected the tremendous influence of the horse, economically as well as culturally, in agriculture, transport, sport, and war, as a companion to humans, a cause of accidents, a prime mover of machines, a source of food, and, of course, a shaper of cities,” write Clay McShane and Joel Tarr in The Horse in the City: Living Machines in the 19th Century. Martha Camarillo photographed her Fletcher Street series in 2003–04 – a book with the same title was released in 2007 – on this street (which is only a few hundred metres long) in central Philly with its eight horses and the young black males doting on them. “They have been here for years, when the African American community thrived in Philadelphia, before drugs and unemployment steadily encompassed healthy neighbourhoods and they disintegrated into urban war zones,” Camarillo explains. “Despite it all, the horses have stayed, and they have because of the small, passionate, dedicated group of men determined to reclaim their neighbourhood and their children. In this fight, they use the one thing they know, love and trust, the horses.”

In The Horse, the Wheel, and Language, David Anthony describes how the first signs of the domestication of the horse became visible in the Pontic-Caspian steppeland after 4800 BCE: “What was the incentive to tame wild horses if people already had cattle and sheep? Was it for transportation? Almost certainly not,” he argues. “Horses were large, powerful, aggressive animals more inclined to flee or fight than carry a human. Riding probably developed only after horses were already familiar as domesticated animals that could be controlled. The initial incentive probably was the desire for a cheap source of winter meat.”

A favourite picture in Like a Horse is Beni Bischof’s old and new Bowcoy (2011) where the heads of the horse and the cowboy in John Grabill’s 1888 photo from the Wild West have switched bodies. Bischof works with all sorts of hybrid combos, like in The Last Unicorn (2013) with a human finger horn drilled through the picture of a white fairy tale horse. His numbskullery is too silly to be Dada but too great to be Mad magazine, or as the Swiss artist puts it himself: “I have a darker side. It’s very important for me. The jazzy expression is only the tip of the iceberg. The nice look is the Trojan horse that gets into the viewers’ brain to unfold its real essence. An important motivation for making art is to channel my anger over specific stupid facts on Earth.”

“So the horse occupies a peculiar and privileged position, not quite a pet, no longer a working animal, rooted, for many people in the past, but flourishing in the present,” reflects Michael Korda in his book Horse People: Scenes from the Riding Life. Bianca Pilet’s Falabella baby horse is portrayed as a baby pet doing baby pet things, like fair pipi on the bath rug. “The hair work on each horse was about four to five hours. The horse absolutely adored having been groomed and being played with,” says Julian Wolkenstein from Australia in the F Stop online magazine (no date) about his super-styled horses for real-life Barbies from the Pony Pin-Ups series (2007). “I thought that a painterly, classical rendition of the horse was a little bit more serious and it was a better way to get the humour across, rather than going with a light, fluffy, oversaturated look.”

Horses in art were really only out of fashion during the millennia of hardcore Christianity. Wendy Williams argues in her book that we have lost the art of observing these animals: “We see what the horse is doing, but we don’t always know why he’s doing it. We know little about how horses really behave when they are out of sight. We see horses in our barns and pastures and mistakenly assume that we see the essence of the ‘horse’. I’ve always thought this rather strange.” Look at the exquisite Vogelherd Horse, a less than five-centimetre-long sculpture in mammoth ivory carved 35,000 years ago, or at the over one-hundred-metre-long Uffington White Horse in the UK. Here it is – the entity of the horse.

“Horses are the stars of Ice Age art,” she writes and muses on that Ice Age artists must have spent “months and years just watching. They understood horses’ facial expressions, how their nostrils flared when they were frightened, how their ears betrayed their inner emotions, how they sometimes stood together in small bands, and how, sometimes, they would wander alone and seem rather forlorn. From this art, we know that before horses became our tools, long before the bit and the bridle were invented, Homo sapiens adored watching wild horses.”

I adore watching Erika Larsen’s People of the Horse (2011–12), perhaps the greatest joy and surprise in the show. “I believe I am searching for a moment of silence between myself and whatever it is I am photographing,” she says. The series is about the horse in Native American culture, and the six super-sharp and beautifully composed pictures at Fotografiska embrace both conceptual art and the language of National Geographic. They are splendid.

John Wood describes the final destination for the protagonist in Gulliver’s Travels from 1726 in the foreword to Ezekiel’s Horse – how Lemuel G “encountered two vastly kinds of creatures: the Houyhnhnms, those intelligent, wise, gentle, truthful, reasonable, and beautiful horses who were in control of the society; and the Yahoos, a savage, cruel, deceitful, unreasonable, ugly species that looked frighteningly familiar. They murdered, raped, fought, stole from one another, and, but for being a bit more hairy, looked like us. They could not speak, but apart from that, they were the frightening mirror of ourselves. Gulliver was understandably repulsed; and during his stay tried to model himself as closely as possible on the kindly and noble Houyhnhnms. When he asked his teacher the meaning of that strange word Houyhnhnm, he was told it ‘signifies a Horse’, but means ‘the Perfection of Nature’.”

This is naturally the Disney version of what Jonathan Swift intended with the story about these sordid elitists, how they owned the discourse and yet were unable to examine their own behaviour. “The notions that life here and now is worth living, or that it could be made worth living, or that it must be sanctified for some future good, are all absent,” as George Orwell wrote in his essay “Politics vs. Literature: An Examination of Gulliver’s Travels” in Polemic magazine (September/October, 1946): “There is something queerly familiar in the atmosphere of these chapters, because, mixed up with much fooling, there is a perception that one of the aims of totalitarianism is not merely to make sure that people will think the right thoughts, but actually to make them less conscious […] The Houyhnhnms, we are told, were unanimous on almost all subjects. The only question they ever discussed was how to deal with the Yahoos. Otherwise there was no room for disagreement among them, because the truth is always either self-evident, or else it is undiscoverable and unimportant.”

Three hundred years into the future in Houyhnhnmland, and our hope is complex societies that create the art we see in Like a Horse.

Peter Stackpole, People Came Out to See the Diving Horse, July 1, 1953.
Like a Horse at Fotografiska in Stockholm through September 3, 2017.

11 July 2017

THESE FIRES NEVER STOP

Irving Penn, Woman with Roses (Lisa Fonssagrives in Lafaurie Dress), Paris, 1950.

And suddenly there was this American, unlike anyone else, with his own world.

– Edmonde Charles-Roux on Irving Penn

Europe was on the brink of World War II when a lovely butterfly-daredevil in a Lucien Lelong dress with a “winged” skirt was toeing the outer edges of the Eiffel Tower. The woman who put herself in danger for this illustrious, immortal fashion photograph by Erwin Blumenfeld for Vogue was the Swedish-born supermodel (etcetera) Lisa Fonssagrives. In the lens of another German-American photographer, Horst P Horst, she used her dancer’s body to spell out the magazine’s name with five calisthenic bends for American Vogue’s June issue the following year. Fonssagrives claimed she had been a complete novice to fashion magazines, and that she studied and mimicked the gestures and movements of the beautiful ladies in their resplendent evening dresses in the paintings in the Louvre during a crash course there before her modelling career took off in 1936.

“I would stand before the camera on a set and concentrate my energy until I could sense it radiate into the lens and feel the photographer had the picture,” she told David Seider in an interview in Bomb magazine (Spring, 1985). “I would imagine what kind of woman would wear the gown I was wearing and assume different characters. I would look at myself in the dressing room mirror before going on the set and distinctively try to solve the photographer’s problems. I would look at the cut of the dress and try different poses to see how it fell best, and how the light would enhance it, and basically try to create a line the way one starts a drawing. I would objectify myself and become more of a director than an actress.”

A group of belles (most of them in their mid thirties) forms the Beatonesque tableau The Twelve Top Models of the 1940s, which Alexander Liberman at American Vogue called “one of the most extraordinary tours de force of fashion photography” (published in the May issue of 1947). The clothes and the postures, and the overall sense of a surreptitious parlour game, along with the traces of Liberman’s art direction is reminiscent of something clicked by Cecil Beaton and hence frozen in time. But the photograph is painted in shadows and light and perfected with a measured “unfinished” look with the workman ladders and the wavy carpeting. (In lack of the even northern light that the photographer always preferred to work with, he had to use hot tungsten lamps that forced the models to fix a position for twenty seconds and repeat this twenty-nine times.) The woman in the centre in Nefertitian profile is of course Lisa Fonssagrives. As Irving Penn (1917–2009) recalled it in the 1990s: “When Lisa came in, I saw her and my heart beat fast and there was never any doubt that this was it.” It was love at first sight.

And beautiful, beautiful Lisa is the one who greets us at Fotografiska in Stockholm from a lush platinum-palladium print of Woman with Roses (Lisa Fonssagrives in Lafaurie Dress), Paris, 1950 – and she practically ropes you in like a cool yet merry festaiuolo, the “feast-maker” in Italian Renaissance plays and paintings who establishes eye contact with the public and introduces us to what is going on. And what is going on is the second instalment of Irving Penn: Resonance – Photographs from the Pinault Collection, which premiered at the Palazzo Grassi in Venice in 2014. It is a good move by the curators Matthieu Humery and Pierre Apraxine – together with Johan Vikner at Fotografiska – to hold back a little and show no more than exactly one hundred pictures, as this will give you a bigger picture of Mr Penn’s accomplishments. Resonance is modestly speaking one of the finest exhibitions you will see in your life.

There is a pleasant air of concentration, placidity and proudness when I meet up with Matthieu Humery and Johan Vikner the day before the opening of Resonance – on the 36,523rd day since Irving Penn’s birth in New Jersey, one day short of his centennial – in the upper gallery at Fotografiska. “What is nice about this space is that if you stay in the middle, you see all these series at once – we didn’t want to feed the space too much with too many pictures,” Humery confirms. “The idea is to work with different series, to see how these series have been treated in the very same way. Penn has a very specific way of creating images, and that is why we call the show Resonance because you see that there is a link between them. It is not quite easy to explain, and that is the magic and beauty of it, but you will slowly realise what it is the more you see it.”

Seminal to Mr Penn’s photography, and his greatness, was how he treated each and every individual he portrayed with absolute attention and equality. Man Ray, in his short piece “L’Age de la Lumière”, talked about “the removal of inculcated modes of presentation” and how – “in this exalted state” – “Race and class, like styles, then become irrelevant, while the emotion of the human individual becomes universal. For what can be more binding amongst beings than the discovery of a common desire? And what can be more inspiring to action than the confidence aroused by a lyric expression of this desire?” In her foreword to the excellent On the Edge: Images from One Hundred Years of Vogue (1992), Kennedy Fraser suggests that, “Penn is like a Zen monk meditating before a flame.” Mr Penn’s images are meticulously astringent but they are all very much aroused by human fire.

Lisa Fonssagrives is an oak and a willow. John Szarkowski called Woman with Roses “a masterpiece of the genre”. “The true subject of the photograph is the sinuous, vermicular, richly subtle line that describes the silhouetted shape,” he wrote in Looking at Pictures. Well, that was before Irving Penn produced his platinum prints where the full structure of the pleated black chiffon evening dress comes alive with its wearer, who brims with lustre in a matchless pose. There were better dresses from the fantastic autumn 1950 collections (one only needs to mention the name Balenciaga – Dior called him “the master of us all”), but this phenomenal picture is indeed the masterpiece from the couple’s ten heady days in Paris in June that year. A few weeks later they married in London and remained inseparable for forty-two years.

“It is such an iconic image, and three years ago we also opened the show with this image,” Humery fills in. “I think she was impressed by his very specific vision of the world. And apparently they were really, really in love. When Tom Penn talks about his parents he is always very emotional, and he always mentions how much they were in love with each another. When Lisa died, it was very difficult for Penn.”

“The way he represents her and the way he represents Small Trades is to show people on the same high level. What was quite interesting at the time was that it was unusual to reproduce such images in Vogue, to realise them in the middle of a fashion magazine. It’s art but it is also a document – from this point of view – of disappearing small trades. Of course, there is this portrait tradition coming from Atget.”

In 1950, Mr Penn expressed that the fashion magazine was “one of the few contemporary media in which commercial success and the highest aesthetic standards are not incompatible”. French Vogue sent Robert Doisneau to scout for craftsmen and small traders from the area around rue Mouffetard for Penn’s ennobling Small Trades series (continued in London and later in New York, and then published in these three editions of Vogue) which he photographed in the same threadbare studio, six rickety flights up on rue Vaugirard, on the same spot and against the same blotched backdrop as he eternalised Fonssagrives, Régine Debrise and Bettina Ballard in the otherworldly haute couture costumes that was brought in each day by bicycle messengers.

The picture of Fonssagrives is accompanied by a dozen of these angels of reality (a sewer cleaner, a balloon saleswoman, a fishmonger, two butchers and so on) in the same room at Fotografiska. In their sight you see the world again. “If our age is to have a lasting art, its roots must be in a broad base of human understanding and need,” the photographer wrote to his editor at Vogue. “Irving Penn could work in its rarefied atmosphere for only so long before seeking fresh air. He had not been born to privilege and never craved its niceties; the social whirl was nothing to him,” argues Maria Morris Hambourg in Irving Penn: Centennial, the great book and the great show that she co-curated this year at The Met. “The stunning recognition that any people, however remote, are not the other but oneself in different guise generated a sympathetic current and an urge to bridge the disconnect. This is an underlying premise of Penn’s portrait practice.”

“I preferred the limited task of dealing only with the person himself, away from the accidentals of his daily life, simply in his own clothes and adornments, isolated in my studio. From himself alone I would distil the image I wanted, and the cold light of the day would put it onto the film,” Penn explained. “I’m a surprisingly limited photographer, and I’ve learned not to go beyond my capacity. I’ve tried a few times to depart from what I know I can do, and I’ve failed. I’ve tried to work outside the studio, but it introduces too many variables that I can’t control. I’m really quite narrow.”

“Penn was very conscious of the fleeting quality of what he was photographing,” says Edmonde Charles-Roux – who was exceptionally useful to him when he was in Paris for the Vogue commissions – in Anne Lacoste’s interview in the publication about the Small Trades series. “Penn’s powers of observations were worthy of an entomologist. When I watched him work, I often found myself comparing him to the great, brilliant monsieur [Jean-Henri] Fabre, the world-famous Provençal scientist. I suspect that Irving, like him, could stay interested for hours in an ordinary insect, a fly, or an ant. His exceptionally powerful perceptiveness takes him very far, very much beyond photography, and we learned this as we went along. Penn also has that magnificent capacity to reflect deeply and to question himself.”

The clearcutness of Irving Penn’s imagery (his studio was sometimes referred to as the Hospital) has its moments of conscious “self-sabotage”. Is that mouse droppings on the studio floor in some of his Corner Portraits? What about that fat fly in his fruity Still Life with Water Melon, New York, 1947, or the earring that produces the “wart” on Fonssagrives’s chin in Woman with Roses? Humery stops at the soft and fleshy Nude No 147, New York, 1949–1950. “It is something between sculpture and painting, and he did these heavy bodies to play with the flesh as a reaction against the very thin and elegant beauties in the magazine. It was one of the first works he did for himself. It is really amazing when you see that.” He whispers in wonder and points at the model’s mole on her belly.

Mr Penn kept this series for himself for several decades. Edward Steichen, who was heading the Department of Photography at the Museum of Modern Art with his post-World War II ideas of a global family, said that he wanted anything from Irving Penn but “None of those nudes.” In his The New Yorker (January 21, 2002) review of the Penn nudes in the Earthly Bodies show at The Met, Anthony Lane writes how he “began to envisage Penn as a quiet American cousin of the Catherine Deneuve character in Belle de jour [1967]. She, blessed with a husband who looks like a male model and behaves like a perfect gent, seeks afternoon solace in the paws of the misshapen and the voluminous, as if to reassure herself, like Penn, that beauty is not always truth, and that truth comes in different sizes.”

Matthieu Humery says that he wanted to do this exhibition with Pierre Apraxine “because he worked very closely with Irving Penn in New York with a series, and I know that the Penn Foundation likes him a lot, so for me it was very interesting to have him. The good thing when you do a show together with another person is that you always have a conversation – and intimacy is quite important – you have this non-stop conversation; the more you speak about something, the more ideas come out of it. We didn’t want to do anything chronologically, and neither precise groups, so that’s why we ended up creating these sections. And also to have a huge wall with one image from each group at the end.”

That wall reigns supreme: Poppy Showgirl, New York, 1967 next to Rochas Mermaid Dress (Lisa Fonssagrives), Paris, 1950 next to Playing Card, New York, 1975 next to Patissiers, Paris, 1950 next to Four Guederas, Morocco, 1971 next to Jerry Parnis’s Harlequin Dress (Lisa Fonssagrives), New York, 1950 next to Ballet Society, New York, 1947 next to Black and White Vogue Cover (Jean Patchett), New York, 1950 ­– one of his 170 covers for Vogue, and one of Patchett’s seven covers for the magazine that year alone – next to the wondrous Cuzco Children, 1948, leaning on a small table.

The photograph of the two children came out of a three-day session in December 1948 when Penn took two thousand pictures with his Rolleiflex, as he was photographing the people in the old Inca capital – quite in the tradition of Eugène Atget and August Sander and quite not – in a rented studio with a tattered, seamless backdrop and windows facing the north. (A much contrary story to his singular out-of-studio picture that he had taken the week before of Jean Patchett at a café table in Lima: “We flew 3,200 miles [5,000 km] and after we got there, a week went by and Mr Penn still hadn’t used his camera. I started getting nervous about it. Every day I got up and got dressed but he never took a picture. Finally one day we found this little café, and there was a young man sitting across from me; and I was getting frustrated. So I just sort of said to myself to heck with this and I picked up my pearls and I kicked off my shoes. My feet were hurting. And he said, ‘Stop!’” The picture is a classic.)

The Cuzco Children was François Pinault’s first Penn acquisition. As a matter of fact, he didn’t collect photography before he discovered this picture in a catalogue in 2007. “He gave me a call and came to New York to look at it and wanted to buy it,” Humery explains. “After that, he discovered the Small Trades. He is not a young, young man, so I think he got very emotional when he saw these workers from another time who remind him of his own childhood.” 

A host of the Irving Penn pictures in the Pinault Collection comes from the estate of Kuniko Nomura who corresponded with the master camera artist from the early 1980s and built a substantial Penn collection. “And they made a selection, including those famous internegatives in order to create platinum prints, which is something you normally can not acquire because it is not a piece of art, it’s an in-between process. He didn’t really know at the time why she wanted them, but he said yes. And they are very beautiful. Mrs Nomura did not have any children, the Japanese government wanted to sell it and Mr Pinault made an offer in order to buy the entire collection.”

Johan Vikner encountered Humery in Paris eighteen months ago to discuss the Resonance exhibition. “The works have been stored in Geneva, which of course is a pity for such a treasure. So when we were told that the pictures were available, it was evident that we had to revive the exhibition especially for Penn’s centennial. We have since been working on transforming and adapting the exhibition to our premises,” Vikner explains. “It is basically the same exhibition, but we do not have the internegatives because they are too sensitive to show again. But we are very excited about the selection. We started from how the exhibition was arranged at the Palazzo Grassi, and that is where the thematic and curatorial ideas come from, and then adapted it with our own design and own wall colours with Penn’s different greys and the greenish colour from [his first photo book (1969)] Moments Preserved.”

Penn’s pictures are lyrical expressions of human familiarity. He found the chewing gum-ness of the chewing gum in a still life and the Duchamp-ness of Marcel Duchamp in a portrait – he conveyed the essence, the allure and the Penn-ness of whatever went through his camera into a sublime union of spirituality and thinghood. “A still life is a representation of people,” he told his students at the Famous Photographers School in the 1960s. “Each still life object has got to tell as much of human story as if you looked right into a human being’s eyes. Without this, the still life has very little validity in my mind.” 

The abovementioned Vogue photographers snorted their disapproval of the magazine’s new talent in 1943, so Alexander Liberman provided Penn with a smaller large-format camera, a technical aide and a permanent space in Vogue’s photo studio at 480 Lexington Avenue to try out his ideas for himself – Penn was barely an amateur photographer at the time – and since Penn found himself as a photographer almost from the onset, he consequently landed his first Vogue cover as early as October, 1943. “Liberman’s recognition of Penn’s talent and, in turn, Vogue’s indulgence of its demands amounted to an exalted patronage of the sort once enjoyed by artists in the courts of kings,” Hambourg explains. “The collaborative trust and rapport of this hand-in-glove duo was respected, envied, and naturally resented.”

Liberman wrote: “His portraits are not idealisations, and he is never over-impressed by the sitter, as so many photographers are […] There is no deceit in his pictures; his camera does not lie. He seeks to convey individuality by showing how light hits the planes of the face, the knobs of bones […] Sometimes he uses an extreme close-up, sometimes a long shot, a change of angle or point of view, all subtle means of making us see a person entirely. He can not and will not compromise with flattery.”

Penn’s Portraits with Symbols series with pictures of famous contemporaries like Dorothy Parker (March issue, 1945) and Orson Welles (August issue, 1946) are ingenious, strict but playful examples of how he early on fused the still life with the portrait. In the Resonance show, New York Still Life, 1947 is side by side with a group portrait from the Ballet Theatre, New York, 1947 (again with the ladders and the scaffolding nature of the composition), and Vikner points out how the dancers “look like miniature people because the composition is so reminiscent of a still life”. Indeed, they look like Dr Pretorius’s jabbering homunculi in his underground lab in The Bride of Frankenstein (1935). The earliest pictures of individual people are Penn’s portraits of 1947 – of luminaries like Alfred Hitchcock, Salvador Dalí and Marc Chagall (here as a “flying” figure from his paintings about aerial love), all resting on crates piled up and covered by a greyish carpet kind of void – and then, of course, Mr Penn’s groundbreaking, existential Corner Portraits of 1948–49.

The shaved Rrose Sélavy was the guinea pig for the Corner Portraits. Pushed into a miniscule cubicle, set in a narrow 22.5-degree angle, Marcel Duchamp muses and shines as the prime dandy of cerebral art. Other cornered names in the exhibition are Georgia O’Keeffe – famous for her New Mexico paintings of labia flowers and desert skulls – the Origin of the World, and the end of it – and the Duchess of Windsor, the aristo-Fascist who was tailed by the FBI since the war, and for good reason, and who in our time was treasured in Madge’s claptrap costume drama W/E from 2011.

Hambourg: “How each person managed in his or her tight corner or carpeted wasteland and what, within those reduced circumstances, the talented and famous made of being caught there are basically existential questions that had deep resonance in that postwar epoch.” She suggests that these portraits “with their barren, metaphysical climate and strategic intensities, seem to ask of the sitters their very essence”. Vogue editor Bettina Ballard claimed that, “These sombre, soul-searching portraits became a badge of success for the sitter, like going to the most fashionable analyst.”

Penn himself noticed how “This confinement, surprisingly, seemed to comfort people.” He loved the game of baseball and the design of the baseball diamond. The heightened atmosphere in the “diamond” in his studio revealed not only the sitter but also the predicament and the potentiality of the individual (any individual) after the Second World War. People were more than survivors, what more then? In his 1955 afterword to The Outsider, Camus described his protagonist Meursault not as a reject “but a poor and naked man, in love with a sun which leaves no shadows. Far from lacking all sensibility, he is driven by a tenacious and therefore profound passion, the passion for an absolute and for truth. This truth is yet a negative one, a truth born of living and feeling but without which no triumph over the self or over the world will ever be possible.” The novel was published in 1942.

Penn did over three hundred of these portrait sittings for Vogue between 1944 and 1950. Marlene Dietrich escaped the corner in 1948 but not the will of Irving Penn. “Now, look, in this experience you be Dietrich and I’ll be the photographer,” he told her. “Boy she boiled, but she stayed with it.” Mr Penn was famous for working in silence, from the very beginning of his career to the final years in the studio on Fifth Avenue (where he used to take a short nap on the floor during lunch break when he was almost ninety years old). Alber Elbaz, who designed for Lanvin for a decade and a half, told The New York Times (December 22, 2009) that Penn cleared the studio when he arrived for the shoot: “It was just us in a studio with big daylight windows. We talked for two hours, sitting on stools. He had read some of my interviews, and he knew my work. He listened to me, and then he said, ‘Take off your glasses.’ No photographer had ever said that to me. Penn said, ‘When you take off your glasses, something about your stability is gone.’ And that was the picture.”

There are also many portraits in Resonance from the early 1950s and the late 60s/early 70s, and they are all superb. Madame Colette and her neighbour Jean Cocteau from 36 rue de Montpensier, The New Yorker artist Saul Steinberg, wearing a paper-sheet face with eye dots and a cartoon snoot, Truman Capote, Woody Allen with a Chaplin moustache (as fake as the plastic seas in a Fellini film), Cecil Beaton, Tennessee Williams … They had faces then.

Yes they are all superb, and superbly printed. Penn called Picasso “A great presence, deeply aware of his own image” in Moments Preserved. I’ve seen his Picassos from La Californie in Cannes (1957) reproduced from silver gelatin prints, but never like this. Matthieu Humery shows me what there is to discover in the reflection of Picasso’s intense eye. “The eye is in the middle of the composition and that means two things: one, that Picasso himself has a great eye, and two, that in the eye you see his famous studio and you see the photographer. So it’s like van Eyck’s Renaissance portrait with the couple, and also it’s a self-portrait – it is a double vision of Penn reflecting himself in the eye of the greatest artist of the 20th century, and maybe Penn saw himself as one of them.”

Irving Penn’s parents were Jewish émigrés from Russia. After their divorce, Penn followed his father to Philadelphia where he finished high school and received a scholarship to the Pennsylvania Museum School of Industrial Art in 1934, for his noticeable gifts in the visual arts and his wish to become a painter. But this wasn’t just any local school of applied arts. It was here that the great Alexey Brodovitch – a “white émigré” from Imperial Russia, who had been steeped in the creative energy of Paris before landing his profession in Philadelphia in the fall of 1930 – set up his Design Laboratory to teach his students about the best and most advanced design ideas from Europe, though much of it were spurs of his own genius. Brodovitch was of course the unsurpassed art director of Harper’s Bazaar, which under his command from 1934 to 1958 was a better-looking magazine than Vogue. Typography, Layout, Design, Package and Product Display were the topics in this aggregate of fifteen-week courses given at the school, for the third and fourth year students who were lucky enough to embark on his Design Laboratory adventure:

“The aim of the course is to help the student discover his individuality, crystallise his taste, and develop his feeling for the contemporary trend by stimulating his sense of invention and perfecting his technical ability. It is conducted as (a) an experimental laboratory, taking account of continuous change, the discovery of new techniques, new materials, new fields of operation; (b) a practical workshop in close contact with current problems of leading magazines, department stores, advertising agencies and manufacturers. Experience and natural gifts of the students are taken into account in preparing them for the ever increasing opportunities in the commercial field.”

The nineteen-year-old Penn could not have had a better start in 1936. (After Brodovitch’s initial brush-off, that is: “I have nothing to teach you and I’d like you to leave my class.”) Penn quickly advanced to become one of Brodovitch’s favourite students, and spent the summers in New York City as the art director’s closest aide at Harper’s Bazaar. Penn worked for no salary and slept on the sofa in Brodovitch’s studio (which had a huge collection of design and fashion magazines), and in return learned things that were invaluable to his photography. “In some ways Brodovitch was my father. I can say that without much tenderness for him, but with the greatest respect and a curious kind of love,” Penn reckoned. “Even when I didn’t like him, I was always vulnerable to the last word he ever said.”

Penn became an art director himself at the Junior League Magazine (a periodical devoted to women’s issues in public life), where he also used his own photography and compositional skills for the forward-looking covers. Soon he also worked as an advertising director for Saks Fifth Avenue, where he came upon another “white émigré” who had managed to leave Russia in the wake of the Revolution and, via Paris and Vu magazine, arrived in New York to work for Condé Nast for over fifty years. Alexander Liberman was on top of that Vogue’s legendary art director between 1943 and 1961, and the one who in June 1943 perennially tied Penn to the Vogue mother ship after his return from Mexico. “[Penn] showed me the contacts of photographs he had taken while travelling across the US and Mexico. They confirmed my instinct that there was a mind, and an eye that knew what it wanted to see. This, I still believe, is the essence of an original photographer.”

Late in 1940, Penn had resigned from his assignments to spend a year with his wife Nonny Gardner (to whom he was only married a few years) in Coyoacán in Mexico City to pursue a career as a painter. “I very much wanted a change of work,” as he wrote in Passage (1991). “I had for a time been making sketches for paintings I wanted to do, and I longed to wander in strange places without the discipline professional work demanded. Europe was at war. Mexico seemed a possible alternative, accessible and within my limited means.” Mr Penn needed that year to conclude that he would never stand a chance to become an original painter. All he brought back to the US was his drawings and two human skulls, which you can contemplate in Resonance as The Poor Lovers, New York, 1979.

In November 1944, Penn arrived by boat to Naples as a volunteer for the Allies’ Italian Campaign to abolish all Nazi forces in and about Italy. He had been offered a post as a war photographer (or “artist photographer” as it was called) but joined in with the American Field Service to support the British Army as an ambulance driver in the Apennine Mountains. During his year in service, Penn also used his Rolleiflex while stationed in Yugoslavia and India.

In his piece about Alexander Liberman in The New York Times (November 5, 2013), Vince Aletti argues that Liberman both “mentored and traumatised several generations” of Vogue staffers and contributors, however “Long before Pop, he had a genuine appreciation for both high and low culture that was – in one of his favourite words – modern. That sensibility – and an insatiable appetite for new stimuli in any field – is what made his editorial design more original and influential than his art. He may have run roughshod over editors and art directors, but his real art was collaborative and surprisingly inclusive.”

Penn was the photographer Liberman always dreamed of becoming. After that big sweep of imaginative portrait sessions for Vogue, Liberman sent Penn to France and Italy in 1948 to photograph the cultural names that had gone invisible since the war, people they both regarded with much esteem. “I was extremely surprised by Penn’s attention to, interest in, even admiration for European art world personalities,” said Edmonde Charles-Roux at Paris Vogue who helped him on these journeys. “Penn’s arrival in France and my encounter with a young American photographer who was enthusiastic about our cultural life were like a sign. His arrival predicted the imminent end of a harsh blackout.” Penn had been to war, but the misery he came face to face with in Naples “was the most important episode in Penn’s life,” according to Charles-Roux. “There was a Penn with whom I arrived in Naples, and another Mr Penn who returned to Rome. He had changed.”

Liberman sent him to Paris again in 1949 to give him a sense of haute couture, just to register the beauty and the folly of the high fashion circus. Penn recalled that Liberman “thought I was a bit of a street savage”: “Alex called me and told me that I’d need to go out and buy myself a dinner jacket. Can you believe it? In those days the showings were at night, black tie, no mob of paparazzi, no loud music, just little gold chairs, huge arrangements of flowers, champagne, very civilised. Then the girls came out, and they were so snotty to the audience. It was wonderful.” The following year on rue Vaugirard – the six rickety flights up – he showed how wonderful it was. Penn wrote in his notebook: “The light was the light of Paris as I had imagined it, soft but defining.” He photographed the models in the fancy articles and the small traders from the fifth arrondissement in their outfits, with their accoutrements or samples of merchandise – styles of a life that has dignity. This was and this is Irving Penn.

It was nonetheless the end of his fashion work for the magazine for quite a time when Jessica Daves became the editor-in-chief at American Vogue in 1952. Penn was told that his fashion photography was “too severe” and “burned the page”. That year – when the couple’s only child was born – Penn went from couture to Jell-O when he set up his own studio at 80 West 40th Street to enable a very successful side career in advertising photography. There is a chronological hole in Resonance for Penn’s 1950s.

“In fact,” as Arthur Marwick delineates the decade in Beauty in History, “far from being the centre of an all-pervasive international culture, the United States in the 1950s was an inward looking, self-regarding, parochial society, while at the same time it was affluent, colourful and, in some respects, ‘modern’ in ways in which European countries simply were not. Far from being part of an American-dominated international culture, these countries were still very much dominated by their own traditions, and very ‘backward’ in comparison with the United States. The full international cultural exchange which is an essential prerequisite of a completely modern conception of beauty had yet to come.”

In 1961, Penn knew that he had been running on empty for too long. To challenge himself, he travelled Europe with a Nikon to (who knows?) rival the kinds of pictures we all know from National Geographic. “To take a photographic landscape was to see the world as separate from oneself, yet Penn made sense of the world by connecting intimately with people and objects,” as Hambourg argues. “When he portrayed people, he was with them in close quarters, and if they spoke no common tongue, he arranged the pose through touch. Objects too, were near at hand: the things he collected he cathected. Penn related personally, psychically, and physically to the adjacent world. To make it his he brought it close.”

Liberman remembered that a certain feeling of impuissance prevailed at Condé Nast in the early 1960s and for the reason “that Harper’s Bazaar was a more elegant magazine than Vogue. The team at the Bazaar – Brodovitch, Vreeland, Avedon, and of course Carmel Snow – had been quite exceptional. And we thought it would be a great coup to bring Vreeland to Vogue.” The coup was a fact in 1963, and in 1965 Diana Vreeland brought over Richard Avedon as well. “Years later, it would emerge that Penn considered Avedon was a gun aimed straight at him,” writes Michael Gross in The Secret, Sexy, Sometimes Sordid World of Fashion Photographers. “Though Penn’s guarantee was raised to two hundred pages a year (double Bert Stern’s), he later called Avedon’s arrival a turning point, the moment he began putting his personal work above his job at Condé Nast. Penn likely also worried, and quite correctly so, that Vreeland would prefer Avedon’s theatrical approach to fashion photography.”

Penn told Newsweek in 1978 – during the Richard Avedon retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art – that he stood in awe of Avedon, “For scope and magnitude, he’s the greatest of fashion photographers. He’s a seismograph.” But away from the groovy “youthquake” business fancied by Vreeland, Penn was always the genius at American Vogue. (“Avedon was just a royal pain,” as Grace Mirabella, the long-term Vogue editor who replaced DV in 1971, put it. “Irving Penn, on the other hand, was a dream.”) If Penn was a bit lost in the early 1960s he also to a greater extent ascertained the Penn-ness of his art and made it vividly alive again. 

Raymond Queneau declared that his fellow author Raymond Roussel’s imagination joined “the mathematician’s delirium to the poet’s logic”. We must talk about the delirium and the logic of Mr Penn’s impossibly sublime prints. “As he was obsessed with the printing process, Penn could play like a painter and try different things,” says Matthieu Humery. “I like his ideas, and a lot his vision with images and how he plays with the status of the image. There are not so many photographers with his very high vision that a photograph is not only an image, it could also be an object.”

Mr Penn visited the George Eastman Museum in Rochester in 1963, the same year that Diana Vreeland became the editor-in-chief at Vogue and began to swap couture with prêt-à-porter and adult female models with dolly flappers (Penn found them impossible to photograph) – and worse, to compromise the quality of the printing of the magazine, all for the gloss and for the guardians of regular tides. As Penn professed: “The printed page seems to have come to something of a dead end for all of us.” He wondered at the beauty and the stamina and the grisaille of the platinum and palladium prints that Steichen had amassed at the Museum of Modern Art. In June 1964, Penn began to reinterpret his old pictures (through those internegatives) by brushing an emulsion of platinum and palladium salts onto watercolour paper and put his Cuzco and Small Trades series under UV light for minutes or hours to burn them into the paper stock.

Virginia Heckert writes in Irving Penn: Small Trades how he “introduced a further dimension to the platinum medium – that of a powerful expressiveness that could range from refined elegance to raw immediacy”. True. In the early 1970s, Penn furthered his visual obsession with debris, refuse and decay – the interminable story of time passing, of longing, and death. In 1972, he photographed butts of cigarettes picked from the streets and presented them as psychological blow-ups, a deeper form of Pop Art, when time takes a cigarette, puts it in your mouth. (“A stubbed out cigarette tells the character, it tells the nerves,” Penn concluded.) The Cigarettes series was the first one he did with the platinum medium in mind, and this raw immediacy continued with his Street Material series (1975), the bones (1979–80) and Archaeology (1980).

Hambourg: “Indeterminate and unclassifiable, the Cigarettes were heroic, lush, tender, archaic of process, and minimal in form, all at the same time. What’s more, the contrast between the low subject matter and the high-art treatment was extreme and, it seemed, not only unprecedented in Penn’s oeuvre but perhaps unseemly. Everyone knew Penn as the king of commercial photographers, and here he had jumped rank into the artists’ camp, when photography as Art was still a battle only half won.”

The Skulls series (1986) is the twenty-one animal skulls from the Museum of Natural History in Prague. “It is the whole series, and I don’t think there is any other collector that has this complete. Here he reversed the process and toned the gelatin prints, so you have all this texture on the skulls,” Humery explains. “When you are a creator, at some point death can also be some kind of obsession. Being a creator, it’s a complex paradox seeing yourself disappearing while your works will survive you. I think many artists create for when they will not be around anymore, they project themselves outside life.” Watch how uncannily these images depict the eye sockets, the jawbones and the nasal hollows of these animals in super-sharp focus, with a polar-white background. But rest assured that this tidy suite of pictures is about the triumph of art in the face of death. 

Death as a condition for life is also present in Virginia Woolf’s To the Lighthouse (1927) with the boar’s skull in the bedroom belonging to James and his frightened sister Cam: “‘Well then,’ said Mrs Ramsay, ‘we will cover it up,’ and they all watched her go to the chest of drawers, and open the little drawers quickly one after another, and not seeing anything that would do, she quickly took her own shawl off and wound it round the skull, round and round and round, and then she came back to Cam and laid her head almost flat on the pillow beside Cam’s and said how lovely it looked now; how the fairies would love it […] Cam was repeating after her how it was like a mountain, a bird’s nest, a garden, and there were little antelopes, and her eyes were opening and shutting, and Mrs Ramsay went on speaking still more monotonously, and more rhythmically and more nonsensically, how she must shut her eyes and go to sleep and dream of mountains and valleys and stars falling and parrots and antelopes and gardens, and everything lovely, she said, raising her head very slowly and speaking more and more mechanically, until she sat upright and saw that Cam was asleep.”

Given that the skulls are in plentiful supply in Resonance, one could have wished for a few more of Penn’s fresh and faded Flowers and a few less of his bones that he arranged in all sorts of obsessional ways. (Estuche, New York, 1979 is a still life with bits of severed bone shafts and whatnots in a fortuitous encounter with a very old Singer sewing machine.)

“The first to flower, the first to fall,” says Christoph Waltz as the unknowingly betrayed husband in Tulip Fever (2017), a misdirected film about the engrossing tulipmania – the economic bubble of the bulb trade in the Dutch Republic of the early 1600s. There are three images from the Flowers series in the show, Poppies and Tulips – the other flowers in the series are Roses, Lilies, Peonies, Orchids and Begonias (in that chronological order) – two are twins as they come both in platinum and “original” brilliant dye-transfer versions. Mr Penn photographed a new variety each summer between 1967 and 1973 with one of his very large-format wooden Deardorff cameras for American Vogue’s Xmas issues.

In the gorgeous Flowers (1980), one of the nine exquisite books that Irving Penn published during his lifetime, he confessed that he was hardly a man with green fingers: “I even confess to enjoying that ignorance since it has left me free to react with simple pleasure just to form and colour, without being diverted by considerations of rarity or tied to the convention that a flower must be photographed at its moment of unblemished, nubile perfection. In fact, the reader will probably note my preference for flowers considerably after they have passed that point of perfection, when they have already begun spotting and browning, and twisting on their way back to the earth.”

A picture that looks like it is a hundred years old is the portrait of Dr and Mrs Gilbert Grosvenor, Washington DC, 1951. Grosvenor had served as the editor of National Geographic for over fifty years when this picture was taken. He and his wife are joined by a motley crew of peoples from Penn’s vast family album – “The idea here,” says Humery, “is to have different examples of tribes” – with pictures from The Incredibles (published in Look magazine in January, 1968) of San Francisco hippies, rock stars and Hells Angels members side by side with portraits from Dahomey (1967), Cameroon (1969) and New Guinea (1970) for Vogue.

Russell Heart argued in American Photo (March, 1989) that these pictures were “shocking because they showed native peoples out of their context – an effect that’s the antithesis of National Geographic’s familiar naturalism. These and other images in Penn’s extended series of ‘location’ photographs turned gestures and styles of ornamentation that might have been less a surprise in the jungle or the veld into astonishing and beautiful theatre.” Many have used the word shocking here – Penn too, in his introduction to Worlds in a Small Room (1974): “Taking people away from their natural circumstances and putting them into the studio in front of a camera did not simply isolate them, it transformed them. Sometimes the change was subtle; sometimes it was great enough to be almost shocking. But always there was transformation.”

There was always transformation with Penn. “You can only feel humble for his power and his ability to find the beauty in people without the fake. He knew exactly what to do – before and after,” says Matthieu Humery. “In the middle and the end of the 60s, America had huge problems and members of the African American community were being killed. So imagine having these black people naked in a fashion magazine. That’s why they are so much more than just beautiful images – to see beauty where a lot of people were very racist and did not see anything or did not want to accept their beauty. Penn had this magic trick where he could transform black colour into light, making black people luminous.” He pauses, once more in awe. “It’s crazy, non?”

“Penn was known to describe a photograph as a beatitude. Beatitudes are beneficial thoughts and deeds, forms of salvation from misery, pain, and suffering,” Hambourg writes in the Met catalogue. “Penn was wholly determined to the sanctity of his undertaking, not unlike those dedicated to serving the divine.” The last picture in here is Ripe Cheese, New York, 1992, a droopy Camembert as lost in time as Dalí’s melting clocks in The Persistence of Memory (1931). Lisa was gone.

Irving Penn, Poppy Showgirl, New York, 1967.

Irving Penn: Resonance – Photographs from the Pinault Collection at Fotografiska in Stockholm through October 1, 2017.