24 August 2025

WALKING OUT IN THE BIG SKIES: ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY YEARS OF CARL MILLES

Carl Milles, The Hand of God, 1949–53.

Most of Milles’s figures are travelling towards a goal, uncertain, perhaps unknown, but they belong there and not to that place on earth to which they are attached. The purpose is twofold: it is the world of art, liberated from the obligations of this earth, but finally also something else, something higher, a vita magna, a life idealised, inspired, sublime.

 

– Henrik Cornell, Carl Milles and the Milles Gardens

 

A very famous bearded little man was knock, knock, knocking on the door to the damp home-atelier of a twenty-one-year-old Swedish artist in Paris by the very end of the 1800s.

 

This courtyard greenhouse at 9 rue de la Grande-Chaumière (only a three-minute stroll from the south end of Jardin du Luxembourg) was so poor and miniscule that, as the artist described it fifty years later, there was only “one single place where I could stand upright but then I had to open a skylight in the roof. From there I could see all of Paris and that was not so bad after all. Then there were all the stars at night.” No other sculptor of the following century would move towards the pensive immensity of the Milky Way and deep dive with the towering sea gods and the sensual mermaids of the hidden depths as eloquently as Carl Milles (1875–1955).

 

These knocks that day caught him unawares in the glasshouse. The sturdy visitor looked at him with eyes ajar, then inquired: “Have I the honour of speaking to the sculptor M Milles? Good. I must explain that I was a member of the jury that recently refused your model for Dante’s Heaven and Hell. I contested the decision, for the piece has great merit, and I have come to congratulate its creator and offer him my assistance. My name is Rodin.”

 

“There are around seventy works of art, sculptures and previously unseen plaster models and bronzes that I have chosen to accentuate and include in this exhibition, which is not only in-depth but also introductive. The public may have encountered many Milles sculptures without associating them with Carl Milles. I wanted to show his thoughts and his many aesthetic expressions, which are very diverse. The total work of art that is the Milles Gardens and Milles as a person, it is this world that I aim to highlight,” says Evelina Berglund who has curated The Sculptor Carl Milles 150 Years in the exhibition room at the paradisal Millesgården on an island not far from Stockholm’s city centre.

 

“The structure of the exhibition is a chronological sequence, with different sections containing texts that describe each chapter,” explains the curator. “Milles is an interesting character. He had a very large network of contacts, and many of his friends have written about him, but there are also tall tales and legends surrounding him. Milles was a great and complex figure in many ways throughout his life so when I look at Milles, I focus a lot on what is actually said in his letters.”

 

What Berglund and her colleagues have created is an exhibition about this rather larger-than-life figure that works so splendidly for both the newcomers and for those who think they know their Milles very well – with Berglund’s engaging added touches of Carl Milles’s more generous and humble traits, and her insight into his longing for beauty and the quest for spiritual matters which in this dance of life mayhap would offer us wings.

 

“There was something out of the ordinary about his youth, something that charmed and fascinated,” argues Swedish art historian Henrik Cornell in his Milles biography of 1957. “Perhaps it could be partly explained by his open and receptive attitude, his great willingness to receive and see and understand all that was good and characteristic in everything and everyone. And this perceptiveness was equalled by a rare ability to discover things old and new, and to grasp their significance. He was always guided by this attitude towards life, a mixture of sensitiveness, awe and keen sense of humour. In fact, Carl Milles was an eager acceptor of life.”

 

Milles’s first experience of Rodin’s sculpture was at the General Art and Industrial Exposition in Stockholm, just before his incidental move to Paris in the fall of 1897. It was when he saw Rodin’s Monument to Balzac, presented for the first time at the Palais des Machines that same year, that Rodin became Milles’s “idolised master”. (In his late-1960s masterpiece series Civilisation, Kenneth Clark called it “the greatest piece of sculpture of the 19th century – perhaps, indeed, since Michelangelo”, and this was a man on television who knew what he was talking about.)

 

Auguste Rodin’s propensity for letting his sculpture “grow” out from where it stood on its base, and then allow it to solidify in a non finito state between realism and impressionism, was likewise the point of departure for the young sculptor’s tall piece of clay, Dante’s Heaven and Hell, where the humans are either swirling towards the light or sucked into the hellhole below. This was the one that was met with refusal at the first Salon at the not yet completed wonder of art nouveau, Grand Palais, in 1898. And just as Berglund remarks, “Here you can really feel Rodin.” The piece was indeed based on Rodin’s never ever finished Gates of Hell, with the 180 figures climbing upon each other for the most advantageous position in their self-imposed, abysmal rat race.

 

The curator reveals that Milles’s sculptured tour between Heaven and Hell was supposed to be an electric lamp with a lambent globe at the top. What is left of it, however – after he smashed it to pieces at the Grand Palais in sheer protest of not being accepted among the sanctioned banality of the Salon – is a patched-up, Frankenstein-y, pillar of angst that was graciously saved by his good friends who were deeply aware of Carl Milles’s budding talents.

 

Ever since he was a child, Milles was a dreamer. One would need to go very deep into that allusive rabbit hole to figure out why the aspiring artist assumed his father’s nickname, considering the military-minded “Mille” Andersson’s persistent efforts to deaden his son’s fancies. “He was a boy who did not want to sit still in school. His father wanted him to join the military, but he wasn’t equipped for that; he preferred to be out in the woods, wandering,” says Evelina Berglund. “Carl was incredibly skilled with his hands and picked up pieces of wood and carved them.”

 

When his father found out that his “idiot” son had been wandering the woods around the farm south of Uppsala for a whole year instead of going to school, Carl was beaten up so badly that he did not return to the family home for quite some time, which of course worsened the motherless child’s already poor health and alarming chest condition. Milles’s later schoolyears in Stockholm were more than often spent in the mile-long harbour area of the Old Town and Södermalm – his new fantasy world where he ran errands for the salty seafarers, dreamt of distant shores and of leading the life of an artist. It was here that Milles’s first water-themed sculpture – the grinning granite blob The Sea God (and his loving mermaid) from 1913 – was placed in 1930.

 

His father took him out of school and arranged an apprenticeship in the shop of a master woodworker who became a worthy father figure to Milles. The young Milles continued without difficulty as a student at the University of Arts, Crafts and Design where he received all sorts of awards and good scholarship money. But his old man was still not satisfied and wrote a letter to an army fellow who had started a “Swedish Institute for Physical Training” in Santiago de Chile: “Papa complained to him about me. He wrote back and said, ‘Send me the boy, a shall try to make a man out of him.’ He was to pay my fare from Marseille,” Milles told Swedish Radio in 1952. “But for me it was not Santiago I went to and not even Marseille. It was Paris.”

 

If we are to believe Milles by every word, he waited two full years before he, one Saturday, felt brave enough to visit Rodin’s residence at 77 rue de Varenne. “He was extremely friendly. First, he took me to a restaurant and then I had to follow him out to Meudon where he lived on a hill with Clamart opposite. In the distant lay Paris – spring, summer and autumn in a wonderful haze. One could hear the noise of the city and sometimes when it was calm one heard music from Paris – it was a delightful and lovely atmosphere.” Milles was asked to stay the night in an open guest house with many surprises. During the following years he worked at Meudon from time to time, but it was also much necessary for Milles to emancipate himself from Rodin’s overwhelming influence.

 

“This has always appealed to me,” Milles said, “in France there is an understanding between companions and a readiness to help that is wonderful. It is a practice as far as art is concerned.” He spent his days soaking up the works of his fellow sculptors in Paris, carved wood details at a conveyor belt station in a carpentry factory at the Bastille while his own art slowly gained strength. Milles was awarded at the Exposition Universelle in 1900 and received a major assignment from Sweden two years later when there was not much left of Rodin in him. It was still a decade away till the astonishing imagination, originality and craftsmanship, all those qualities that make his works so evident and special, emerged with unrestricted autonomy.

 

Milles’s lifelong interest in the phenomena of the skies led him to astronomer Camille Flammarion’s popular lectures in Paris on galactic affairs. “He has written an infinite number of books, though he made many enemies in the world of science. He did not write with scientific exactness but mixed in a lot of astronomical romanticism, which opened people’s eyes and minds to a new world,” Milles said. “To this day I always read this sort of things before going to bed.”

 

“Milles had an inborn sense of psychology both of people and animals, argues biographer Cornell. “This is far more than representation of a physical form.” When the painter Maillol turned to sculpture at the beginning of the new century, he successfully transformed his style into his new medium with continuous, undetailed forms that manifested the female body with sleek, effective simplicity. This novel approach to sculpture was instrumental when Milles was still finding his way to render inner and outer life in his works and provide them with purer shapes, less detail, more essence.

 

In Carl Milles: An Interpretation of His Work (1940), Meyric Rogers describes Milles’s journey from being a promising animalier to a master jazz musician in plastic form: “The years before and after his departure from Paris in 1904 saw the immediate results of this intense study in a series of notable animal groups which added much to his growing reputation; but probably the most enduring and significant outcome of his labour of love was the sculptor’s development of a thorough grasp of underlying principles of organic construction and an ability to vitalise natural form even when reduced to its mere visual essentials.”

 

“The immediate result of hard-won hours spent in the Jardin des Plantes was a series of animals produced mainly between 1903 and 1909, some in bronze but many in marble and granite. While these groups are all interesting and vital studies of animal life, they are perhaps more important as indicating the perfect knowledge which the sculptor was gaining of the fundamental laws governing the growth of organic form. From this he developed an ability to recombine and even recreate the forms of nature with convincing logic even though no actual models might exist. Such an understanding was shown immediately in the group of plesiosaurs dating from 1906, a work never taken beyond the stage of the plaster model; but its more lasting effects are evident throughout his later work in the convincing structural reality of his mythical water creatures that seem to be evolved so naturally from the necessities of their aquatic existence.”

 

Milles got his magic key to the city’s botanical garden and zoo so that he could watch the large animals wake up to a new day, and as he observed their movements, he sketched them with clay in his hands. He was also fascinated by the thought of reconstituting prehistoric animals like the giant sea-dwelling swan lizards with their periscopic necks and heads that Meyric Rogers is talking about. That plaster model with the four lizards is a joy to behold in the exhibition at Millesgården and Berglund says that the idea was that the work would be situated by Lake Michigan and serve as a lighthouse.

 

In 1904, as mentioned, Milles was done with Paris and moved around in Europe for a couple of years with Munich as his anchor and the Austrian artist Olga as his bride – Olga who forever would be his loving wife, nurse and adherent. When they finally arrived in Stockholm, Milles had a hard time coping with the Swedes and their strange yet conventional ways. Then came the pressure, the relentless demands, the stress from his considerable workload. The country’s unappealing climate most of the year did not help and when Milles developed an acute gastrointestinal disorder, he was forced to discontinue all work for months and the spouses travelled to Rome.

 

The return to Stockholm was brief since further distress befell Milles after he had been inhaling stone dust. He also suffered from a chip of marble that was embedded in his lung tissue, which led to another life-threatening situation where the Austrian Alps and Lake Garda offered a cure. In 1906, Carl and Olga Milles acquired an unattainable piece of rock on the western part of the Lidingö Island with a panoramic view of Stockholm across the bay. In those days the island was reached by a floating bridge, but when the American suffragette Frances Maule Bjorkman visited Millesgården in 1918 there was a ferry that stopped at a pier where an elevator took her up to the top of the cliff.

 

In the August issue of The Touchstone that year, Bjorkman wrote that the Milles Gardens “had evolved gradually out of his intense desire to have a home that was in itself a form of art expression; a workshop that had in addition to all the necessary mechanical conditions in perfection a certain other quality, only to be described as spiritual, which would be a perpetual stimulus to the imaginative faculty; and an exhibition place where he could show his works in just the surroundings in which he wanted them to be.”

 

Milles told the infatuated writer that once he had conceived a new piece of sculpture, he couldn’t “bear to let it go from me unless I have some assurance that it will be placed under the proper conditions”. For several decades Milles was creating the ideal home for his works, his principles and longings, as the site burgeoned in magnitude and beauty until the whole place became a celestial work of art, a gift from the Golden Age.

“In this domain of beautiful buildings, picturesque walls broken down by niches, pergolas and tiled walks, paved courts, ponds, terraces and flagged steps, the muse of sculpture reins,” wrote the British sculpture critic Kineton Parkes in the June issue of Architectural Review in 1928. “It is a plastic conception of the finest kind realised with a singular integrity, without ostentation and without error of proposition, for composure is the necessity of art and life to the man who has made this domain wherein to dwell and work.”

 

Millesgården – which has been a public museum since as early as 1936 – had something of a false start in 1906, however, with the first building that Milles’s architect half-brother designed in a mediocre fashion after Germanic romantic values. “They had something in common about compositions, about bringing architecture into the Milles Gardens in a natural way. Carl Milles was involved since 1911. He loved Italy all his life and when he came home after being in Pompeii in the 20s, he changed this house to the very distinct Pompeian style. The brothers sent letters to each other all the time, and Evert sometimes got irritated because he had other jobs to attend to. But Milles was so strong in his vision,” tells Evelina Berglund before we go up the stairs to the tower where Milles used to watch the stars.

 

Two people spend their last day on Earth at Millesgården in a 1970 sci-fi novel by Poul Anderson, Tau Zero: “They were the last to go as Millesgården was closed. Most of that afternoon they had wandered among the sculptures, he awed and delighted by his first experience of them, she bidding an unspoken farewell to what had been more a part of her life than she had understood until now. They were lucky in the weather, when summer was waning. This day on Earth had been sunlight, breezes that made leaf shadow dance on the villa walls, a clear sound of fountains.”

 

“But when the sun went down, the garden seemed abruptly to come still more alive. It was as if the dolphins were tumbling through their waters, Pegasus storming skyward, Folke Filbyter peering after his lost grandson while his horse stumbled in the ford, Orpheus listening, the young sisters embracing in their resurrection – all unheard, because this was a single instant perceived, but the time in which these figures actually moved was no less real than the time which carried men.”

 

The woman in this story, Ingrid Lindgren, is the Swedish First Officer of the interstellar vessel Leonora Christine which will lose its figurative wings on its journey to the star Beta Virginis, 37.5 light-years away.

 

“Longing, dreams and hopes dash ahead, showing the way for the aspiration of man,” writes Cornell. In his beautiful studio at Millesgården, Carl Milles usually had twenty men working for him, one was wholly occupied with mending the tools. By 1917, Milles had developed so much as a sculptor that he compelled himself to get rid of most of the plaster models that he had in his studio in a smash purge, and the pieces were buried under what was to become the lower terrace. “At this time, I found almost all I had done was like the work of another man so I decided to destroy whatever I could and start again.”

 

That year the revived Milles began his work on Sunglitter, which would become one of the pieces that he treasured the most. Sunglitter is a rather small but very joyous bronze sculpture of a naiad on a dolphin at full throttle, one hand on the dorsal fin and the other on her flying hair, while the water is gushing from the blowhole(s) of the briny mammal. The fountain brings to mind a story called A Grave for a Dolphin. Albert Denti wrote it in the 1950s after hearing the Ethiopian folktale about a young Italian solder who becomes enamoured with an aquatic Somalian girl who had barely made it out alive from the Muslim slave trade and who can swim, like dolphins can swim. When Shambowa suddenly dies from high fever, her dolphin friend perishes too and the locals arrange to have them buried side by side.

 

The last years of the 1910s and the first years of the 20s was a period in which Milles suspended much of his physical productivity, and in the middle of all this agreed to a professorship at the Royal Academy in Stockholm. Though he detested the academic system and its principles and procedures, Milles made regular appearances at the Academy during the most part of the 1920s. There were at times pauses due to his recurring health issues, and in Montreux 1927 he was treated in the very bed that Rodin’s old secretary Rainer Maria Rilke had taken his last breath.

 

Two things are important to mention in regards to Milles’s seemingly boundless imaginative force from the mid-20s and onwards: his love for music and the new kinds of rhythms presented by the leading avant-garde dance companies Ballets Russes and, a bit later, Ballets Suédois that both mixed movement with art. The other thing was a concurring note that Milles had made in one of Eugène Delacroix’s published diaries: “a so-called fault is often that which sustains a work of art”. Milles was of the opinion that “the more correct a work of art is the duller it is and the less it offers the viewer. When I have seen things that are unfinished, I have always been delighted because the incomplete work is often that which enhances the work of art.”

 

“The masses become simpler, yet at the same time sculpturally richer and more unified, and imbued with a vitality which increases with each successive work,” observes Meyric Rogers. “In this period his style came to what might be called full symphonic maturity, with compositions built of many separate units which were not only highly organised designs in themselves but successfully subordinated parts of a larger whole. The charmingly polished sequences of the preceding period were largely replaced by more rugged rhythms of mass which give to the work of the 1920s its striking originality.”

 

To cite a few of these rugged beauties it would be necessary to mention the Europa Fountain (1926) in the Swedish city Halmstad, which was Milles’s first fountain of significant size. The centrepiece Europa and the Bull – attended by four tritons – with Zeus as the bull, kneeling for the fair Europa to climb onto his back, but instead of a most likable violation of the goddess she takes command and reaches out her hand to touch his tongue. (The sexuality of this sculpture went over the heads of the prudes who were often inconvenient with the nudity in Milles’s works.)

 

The Poseidon Fountain materialised in 1927 at the square at the top of the Avenue in Gothenburg, and it is one of the greatest fountains of the 20th century. The soaring Poseidon, half human, half sea god, is holding a big fish in one hand and a big clam in the other and below him, in and around the splashing pond, Milles has trawled the exotic creatures of the deep and the high seas of his imagination to display a wonderful array of merriments from the piscatorial domain and the land of legend.  

 

Atop of the elegant Diana Fountain (1928) that is crowning the Matchstick Palace’s yard at Västra Trädgårdsgatan 15 in Stockholm, the Roman goddess of the woodland is spinning around with her (invisible) spear, stirring up the birds to a fresh day. Between her and the white marble basin with the faun, the wild boar and the hind sprout four stems that paralleled the vegetal art nouveau that Karl Blossfeldt would make known with his classic plates in Urformen der Kunst the same year.

 

Henry Vollam Morton describes the joys of gushing sculptures so lucidly in his book The Fountains of Rome (1966): “The fountain and the firework have the odd distinction of displaying elements of devastating possibilities in a mood of playful benevolence. Water, the giver of life, and also the taker of life in storm and tempest, achieves in the fountain an appearance of obedience to the will of man […] The fountain has no enemies, even in cold countries: it is a device or invention which has given nothing but pleasure in the course of a long history. It has the ability to minister equally to joy and melancholy, to appeal to eye and to ear, to stand at a street corner ready to fill the water pots, or in a garden to assist the meditations of poet and philosopher.”

 

As it was, Milles’s fountains did have their enemies in Sweden. Many disliked the buoyant fact that fountains are boisterous and exhilarating, and that they splatter. Another thing that upset the Swedish mindset was that these sculptures did not look like his old works, and the disagreement and misconception of his real endeavours hurt him to the core. In 1925, Milles had been bestowed a gold medal at L’exposition des arts décoratifs in Paris (where art déco was officially introduced). In 1927, Tate in London introduced Milles as the institution’s first foreign artist, and a year later he was on show in two German cities.

 

In 20th-Century Sculptors, which was published in 1930, Stanley Casson argued that “There is no more interesting sculptor today than Carl Milles. He can be considered more than any other as the sculptor par excellence of the 20th century […] He shows how an artist can be free and individual without forgetting the masterpieces of past ages.”

 

“And somewhere along the line, I would guess that he started thinking about where he wanted to position himself in the world,” implies Evelina Berglund. “He was courted in New York by newspaper magnate George Booth, who had English roots [Cranbrook] but whose businesses were based in Detroit. He founded the Cranbrook Academy of Art, a multidisciplinary art school with roots in India, based on Rabindranath Tagore's ideas about art institutions, but with all disciplines gathered in one place. It was a bit like an American Bauhaus in its own way. This place is a mini-English campus with an English church and small cottages, a girls’ school and a boys’ school.”

 

It was thanks to Finnish-born architect Eliel Saarinen’s attempts to persuade George Booth to have Milles heading the Sculpture Department at the not yet realised Cranbrook that Milles, in New York in 1928, was entreated to relocate to Bloomfield Hills on the northwestern outskirts of Detroit. This was followed by years of correspondence between Milles and Booth: “We are looking forward to your coming to Cranbrook this fall, and are doing everything possible to complete the house and studio by that time. I notice what you say about people writing you about teaching at Cranbrook. Of course, you know that we understand that you did not undertake to be a ‘teacher’ but would act as a critic and be helpful in any other way you could. After all, I rather think this is the very best way of teaching.”

 

When Carl and Olga Milles arrived at the experimental school by the end of 1931, they were pleased to see that their house and Milles’s first studio were neighbouring Saarinen’s. Milles used to visit the older sculptor students and advise them in their work, and everyone at Cranbrook was welcome to his home to have a look at the Milles collection of antique sculptures, which he spoke about with a flashlight in hand, and to be entertained by his many stories. He and the students could talk about everything except political leanings as Milles never wanted to have anything to do with politics.

 

“For two decades after this initial appointment, Carl Milles was a major luminary and guiding force at the Cranbrook Academy of Art,” clarifies Joan Marter in Design in America: The Cranbrook Vision 1925–1950. “His bronzes enhanced the grounds of the educational community, and his large studio was constantly filled with major sculpture commissions. Thus his presence and activity at Cranbrook infused his students with a seriousness of purpose for their own works.”

 

Milles and his wife spent these decades with each year divided into nine months at Cranbrook and three months at Millesgården and in Rome. Almost immediately after the couple’s arrival, a bigger studio was constructed to accomodate the monumental Orpheus for the blue-painted and neoclassical Stockholm Concert Hall in Stockholm that had been inaugurated in 1926 at the Hötorget Square. The first work that Milles completed in his new country, however, was the curious Jonah and the Whale (1932) with the Jewish prophet in a state of levitation as the whale is spewing him up in the air with the aid of water jets from the great congregation of surfacing fish. Milles said that he wanted to make something to amuse the children, hence the bewildered look on the otherwise zen-like Jonah’s face.

 

Orpheus – the heartbroken god, yearning for his beloved Eurydice forever lost to the netherworld, and yet with his tremendous capacity to pull us up from our ignoble concerns – might be the best thing that Milles ever did, though this piece is strangely not present at the Milles Gardens (other than the chest-and-upwards plaster in the old studio) since the only cast of it is the one at the Haymarket Square in Stockholm. When the lyrical piece was finally installed in 1936, Milles had supplemented his Orpheus with eight human figures that rise above Cerberus, Hades’s three-headed mongrel, and who revolve around the lyre-playing divinity in a fervent state of sacredness.

 

“The Orpheus Fountain at Cranbrook is composed of casts of these male and female figures surrounded by a basin of water about twenty-five feet [7.6 metres] in diameter, and in a circular composition that lacks the central, towering Orpheus. Nevertheless, each of these attenuated, somewhat androgynous forms reveals his or her response to Orpheus’s celestial music,” explains Joan Marter. “The absence of Orpheus here only seems to add to the haunting effect of this ensemble of figures.”

 

In the spring of 1933, Milles contacted George Booth: “I am anxious to have your decision regarding my collection before sailing [to Stockholm] since all my future plans depend on this transaction. May I suggest that you discuss this matter with the trustees, leaving details to be settled upon my return. With my collection at Cranbrook, I should feel more at home here and able to continue my work with more satisfaction and security and I would feel that from now on Cranbrook would be my centre of activities.” From the next year and onwards, Milles’s bronzes started to fill up the vast grounds of Cranbrook, following the Foundation’s commission of sixty of his works. As one would expect, Cranbrook has the second largest collection of Milles sculptures in the world.

 

Before his transfer to North America, Milles participated in a group exhibition of European three-dimensional art at the Metropolitan in New York. His first year in the country saw his first solo exhibition at the Saint Louis Art Museum, an exhibition that moved on to Detroit, Cleveland and Brooklyn, and was met everywhere with great accolade. (There are works by Milles, often more than one, in twenty-eight places across the US, though most of them are concentrated to the east.) The Saint Louisans launched a campaign in the early 1930s to have an original outdoor piece made by Milles for their city – after the exhibition period in the city, the museum had purchased his horseman sculpture of the mythological Swedish figure Folke Filbyter from 1927 – and the sculptor was to work on his great fountain The Marriage of the Waters during the better part of the decade.

 

Due to moral panic about “the Milles nudes for Aloe Plaza”, Milles was urged to modify the title before the sixty-one-metre-long fountain with its two main large figures, embodying the unifying of the nation’s two largest rivers north of Saint Louis, and the seventeen other water spirits was fully ready to bring new pleasures to the American public.

 

“Milles prepared models of sportive tritons, mermaids, and leaping fish, led by a male Mississippi figure and a female Missouri advancing towards each other, in celebration of the confluence of the two great rivers,” explains George McCue in Sculpture City, St Louis: Public Sculpture in the “Gateway to the West”. “A one-word revision of the title calmed the controversy, and it was in the just-good-friends spirit of The Meeting of the Waters that the figures were unveiled in [May] 1940. In general reference it is simply the Milles Fountain.”

 

This was one of the last fountains where Milles – who was granted US citizenship by the government in 1945 in conjunction with a permanent studio at the American Academy in Trastevere in Rome – employed the mythology of liquid creatures before he also in his sculpturing began to look heavenward, bonding human visions with chants for an unknown god. The stargazing The Astronomer with his Roman hair and snoot, holding a divider in his right hand and a raised dodecahedron (a polyhedron with twelve faces) in the other, is most likely a self-portrait of sorts.

 

The Astronomer first appeared at the “World of Tomorrow”-themed 1939–1940 New York’s World Fair as a plaster model, standing near the colossal Perisphere. This white orb was a loud indication of where the world was at, and the mentality of the time: cloud formations were projected on its surface in the evenings as a skin-deep thrill, whereas industrial designer Henry Dreyfuss’s huge and Orwellian “Democracity” inside was a diorama of a tomorrow city, a totalitarian fantasy as dismal as Bowie’s “Future Legend”, and it was the most popular attraction at the fair.

 

“We have tried to look at what is interesting to us today, because just as Millesgården is a legacy that we supervise, we must constantly look ahead in order to make it interesting,” aired its new director Sara Källström during the press preview of The Sculptor Carl Milles 150 Years. To show how up to date the Milles Gardens is today, someone made a decision to crack that whip and give the past a slip.

 

With the exhibition comes a half-hour long video summary of a would-be roundtable discussion – which in reality is a sandbox tribunal conducted by a smug group of adults who wear the same stupid woke suit and express themselves through formulaic rants. These indoctrinated leftards are so clueless about their own and very real darkness that they actually think that they are within their rights to reduce Carl Milles to an outright “Nazi”.

 

“Our historical memory is under sustained assault by a significant swathe of our cultural elites. While many involved in this culture war appear to be focused on controlling the way we speak and think in the here and now, their main mission is to render toxic the legacy of Western civilisation. This ceaseless attack on our history threatens to distort society’s memory of the past and create a state of historical amnesia,” argues Frank Furedi in his piece in the online magazine Spiked on September 6, 2024. “This amounts to a self-flattering presentism. It diminishes society’s sense of historical consciousness and inevitably leads to a failure to grasp different historical moments in their specific contexts. The integrity of the cultural achievements of the past is increasingly treated with indifference.”

 

In the country where cowardice rules and far too many people have no essence other than their discourtesy, conformity and complacency, it comes as no surprise that a seated group of overprivileged Swedes, who would say whatever it takes to make them look superior, will present the usual stale air of fallacies, cavalier attitudes and unsound reasoning.

 

“The angels are in sorrow about the darkness on earth. They say that hardly anywhere do they see light, and that man seize upon fallacies, confirm them, and by this means multiply fallacies upon fallacies,” lamented Swedenborg in The Divine Love and Wisdom (1763), the Swedish mystic who Milles depicted early on in his own personal way in the mid-1920s as a granite effigy with the hands pressed together in a prayer, yet all the same embroiled in the gravitational force of gloom so severe that it crimps his forehead and bows him to the ground.

 

“[Carl Milles’s] final phase is deep pathos describing man’s position on earth and in infinite space,” implies Henrik Cornell. “This other world, which during the 1940s and 50s more and more stands out as the principal background of Milles’s work, is a land of pantheistic brotherhood filled with Christian feeling. It evades, however, the element of the Christian legends and expresses itself instead in a symbolism of humanistic conceptions.”

 

Milles’s friends used to say that he was “angel-haunted”. In Wim Wenders’s Wings of Desire (1987), the bored and earthbound angel Daniel succumbs to the beauty of Solveig Dommartin’s desolate trapezist Marion (and who wouldn’t?) and this love for her brings forth a desire for a “now” rather than a “forever”, an urge to say “ah” and “oh” instead of “amen”: “No,” Daniel reasons in the film, “I don’t want to beget a child or plant a tree, but it would be rather nice coming home after a long day to feed the cat, like Philip Marlowe, to have a fever and blackened fingers from the newspaper, to be excited not only by the mind.”

 

Milles’s terrestrial angels wear skates, or a wrist watch (while being bothered by a mosquito bite); they blow a flute from the wrong end just for the fun of it, or are immersed in serious book-reading, resting on a comfy cloud pillow. Derek Jarman used these kinds of anachronisms and cheerful misplacements in his feature film about the greatest painter of the late 1500s and early 1600s, Caravaggio (1986), in which contemporary sounds and gadgets turn up as items perfectly merged with the early Roman Baroque.

 

“In Milles’s work the urge to live is unlimited.” That is a very beautiful and correct statement by his biographer Cornell and is just as valid for the final pieces that Milles completed during the first half of the 1950s. “The largest work is the Fountain of Faith, which shows the meeting after death of the people who he knew,” says Berglund. “It came at the end of his life, in 1952, but was a work in progress since 1932 – typical of Milles to change and let it grow and grow.” The Fountain of Faith, in Falls Church in Virginia, is something of Milles’s tour de force and consists of thirty-seven figures who he had encountered in his life somehow. The one part of this fountain that can be enjoyed at the Milles Gardens is The Vagabond, a very friendly and erudite recluse who lived in a cave in Auvergne in the southeast of France and who Milles visited several times because he appreciated him so much.

 

In Rodin’s marble The Hand of God (ca 1907), man is like a sprout resting in this palm as a modest hope of what we can be. In Milles’s high-pillar piece that goes by the same name and was executed in Rome between 1949 and 1953, the man (though he is tiny built) is quite as large as the hand – and Milles’s scapegrace is partly humbled by the big skies, partly directing his hands as to swagger, “Come on, come on!”

 

When American writer Hudson Strode visited Milles on his Edenic Lidingö grounds for a book called Sweden, Model for a World (1949), the sculptor told him about a little silver pewter fountain he had in progress for the Museum of Fine Arts in Houston: “It will be very beautiful, I think. It represents the Tree of Paradise [1950] when the angels deliver us in the crown of the tree, and we are very astonished as we look around. And this you have never seen before: the water will just drop down from the tree – just dropping water, which is so beautiful to listen to. The Arabians used this idea for their small marble fountains, where each drop gives out a different sound.”

 

As the five inspired artist types in the Aganippe Fountain – and the naiad Aganippe herself, chilling like a goddess by the poolside – were embodied at the foundry, Carl Milles was a dying man at the age of eighty. The fountain was an indoors installation at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1946 but was moved to Brookgreen Gardens in South Carolina in 1982. There is a slimmed-down version of the fountain at a terraced section of Millesgården called “Little Austria” which Milles created in an attempt to alleviate his wife’s incurable homesickness.

 

Seven years after Carl Milles had taken his final steps into the big skies, Charles Laughton recited a letter written by Milles on The Dinah Shore Show. The British-American actor presented it as “one of the finest pieces of literature that has ever been written about faith and prayer”. It is in fact not, but Laughton’s rendering of it sounds as fantastic as The Song of the Water Sprite – Milles’s last piece that as a clay model accidentally disintegrated into nothing when it fell on the floor of his studio at the American Academy in Rome and only exists as a sketch on paper: a lyre-playing sprite on a fish, harnessing the elements in the most particular way, flowing through the water as a bearer of something precious.

 

“Last night, in the silence which pervaded the darkness, I stood alone and heard the voice of the singer of eternal melodies,” wrote Rabindranath Tagore in Sadhana (1913). “When I went to sleep I closed my eyes with this last thought on my mind, that even when I remain unconscious in slumber the dance of life will still go on in the hushed arena of my sleeping body, keeping step with the stars. The heart will throb, the blood will leap in the veins, and the millions of living atoms in my body will vibrate in tune with the note of the harp string that thrills at the touch of the master.”

 

Orpheus enchants us with the eternal melodies of his stringless lyre. For Milles knew that as long as the heart will throb and the blood will leap, different wings will grow in place of the old ones.


Carl Milles in the largest of his studios at the Cranbrook Academy of Art, as he is putting the finishing touches on the eight metres high centrepiece figure for the Orpheus Fountain in 1934. Photo: Richard Askew/Cranbrook Archives. 




 The Sculptor Carl Milles 150 Years at Millesgården in Stockholm through September 28, 2025.

13 May 2025

L’ORIGINE DU MONDE









Twenty-five years before Gare d’Orsay reopened as Musée d’Orsay in 1986, Orson Welles filmed his adaptation of The Trial in this Parisian train station of old-world elegance built for the newborn century’s electric locomotives. Courbet’s daring picture The Origin of the World was painted in 1866.

10 February 2025

THINKER, TAILOR, SOVEREIGN, SPRITE

If there is one artist who is extremely interested in the architecture of the female form and who knows how to display it, it is Azzedine Alaïa.

 

– Jean Nouvel

 

Fashion, turn to the left. Fashion, turn to the right. People of fashion can all too often be as loud and tasteless as any ceremonial asininity lauded by the goon squad at American Vogue. The maddening extra is that what these figures are actually accomplishing is to demonstrate how heinous and out of touch they really are. “Who will remember Anna Wintour in the history of fashion? No one,” remarked one of the greatest artists in the history of dressmaking – who likewise mastered the true art of living, untouched by the constraints and the bullshit of the fashion industry – Azzedine Alaïa (1935–2017): thinker, tailor, sovereign, sprite.

 

“Alaïa sculpts human flesh from the depths of his lair, reconstructing the female figure by correcting imperfections and emphasising existing qualities. He combines violence, modesty and eroticism by hinting at a woman’s desirable attributes while keeping them out of reach – the essence of the Oriental,” argues François Baudot in his short profile (1996) on the master womenswear designer in which he also suggests that Alaïa’s finest dresses “are those which are created by just two snips of the scissors – fluid motion suspended in time and space with just a few pins”.

 

The “two-snips” prowess is of course nothing but a hyperbole from the sketchy biographer since the designer could spend weeks on end on a single dress, building a composition of some fifty elements on his fitting model to reach that distinctive Alaïa grade of “effortless” sophistication. The dresses on the mannequins displaying four decades of Alaïa’s work at Sven-Harry’s Art Museum in Stockholm, the exhibition is called Master of Couture – Azzedine Alaïa, do not really necessitate a living body inside to come to life as the oneiric beauty and the lubricious ingenuity of these showpieces absolutely percolate with womanliness and in-built movement.

 

The presentation on the torsos, modelled on the figure of a young Naomi Campbell, sort of ideates (if you have a lively mind) a caryatid in a draped and tucked peplos dress who leaves her peristyle assignment for good, puts on a suggestive gymslip on Mount Olympus and walks through history while attentively gathering the technical savvies from the finest names in fashion. Master of Couture is a statuesque exhibition of these embodied figures wrapped in stretch fabrics, seamless one-piece knits or sculptured leather enhanced by grommets, bandages, laces and spiralling zippers. Yet there is no theatrics or froufrou in this place. The exhibition is a sweeping grand total of an artist whose aesthetic guidance came from two principal sources: Alaïa’s own genius – “I am the artisan of my own knowledge” – and his abounding love for women.

 

In his draft script for Robert Palmer’s sublimely nonsensical “Addicted to Love” video from 1986 – with the five scandal beauties as his bogus backup band in their titillating, figure-hugging, liquorice black dresses – Terence Donovan explained that “I would simply dress a group of international models in Azzedine Alaïa dresses [because he] produces clothes that make men become quite irrational and women seem to admire him. He understands the linear engineering of a woman’s body unlike any other designer.”

 

Just a few years earlier, when Alaïa had gained world recognition, Marina Sturdza, the Romanian Princess who died the same year as Alaïa, wrote that his creations “delight in every female curve and live without exaggeration, without costumery or caricature. In fact, his design premise is simplicity itself. Alaïa marries fabric to the female body, with respect and with pleasure. His clothes are instantly recognisable, utterly different from anyone else’s. He moulds and manipulates even strong-textured fabrics on to the female shape, like a second skin. Silhouette and shape are everything, and the body itself his essential inspiration. Alaïa’s clothes are lightyears away from anything that smacks of trendiness and he doesn’t give a fig about fads or ‘what’s in’. His clothes are frankly and unabashedly sexy and women adore them.”

 

Master of Couture is the first Azzedine Alaïa exhibition in the Nordic countries, or as Sven-Harry’s Museum Director Dragana Kussoffsky Maksimović adds with a twinkle, “the first north of London”. Kussoffsky Maksimović has been mad about Alaïa since the early days of discovering “these feminine creations” in the fashion press. “They are still so incredibly cogent. It is sensual, and I think it is so beautiful. This is passion. When I was leafing through the fashion magazines in the 1980s and the 90s, it was always Alaïa who stood out to me. I knew that I wanted to show his sculptural clothes, there was no question about it, that was absolutely what I wanted to do.”

 

Alaïa had a very joyous upbringing – “Life was poetic, lyrical” – but even a happy childhood would surely reap the benefits of a few touches of fairy tale endorsement, at least for someone of Alaïa’s brilliance. And since he didn’t grow up with his biological mother (his ma and pa were farmers who lived in a dusty town in the middle of nowhere), he made up stories about her: that she came from Sweden, that she had been married in the 1950s wearing a wedding dress designed by Jacques Fath, and that her name was Stella. The name and the fantasy originated from the French fashion model Stella Maret, and the story is retold in Marc Parent’s book about his dazzling mother:

 

“I got to know Stella in 1980, looking at old editions of Vogue, L’Officiel, La Femme Chic and L’art et la mode from the 50s. I fell for her silhouette, the way she carried herself, her allure, her whole look, really. For me she evoked the mystery of les robes à l’intérieur, the feminine shape inside the dresses. I loved that era; it was such a sophisticated time for fashion when so much care and elaboration was put into women’s clothing,” Alaïa mused. “Stella is femininity. For me, the thing that said woman about her was her waist! It makes me want to make all women that feminine, and it was the inspiration behind a dress I came up with, made of new textiles, with an invisible interior corset that cinched the waist. In 1982, I also created several leather suits with an ultrasmall waist.”

 

Alaïa’s strongest childhood experience of raw femininity was a breathing image of Courbet’s L’Origine du monde (1866) amplified by an infant’s head popping out of the slit. He almost passed out. The ten-year-old boy was slapped back to reality by the local midwife, the French madame who had delivered him into this world.

 

The place was Sidi Bou Saïd, a Mediterranean suburb to the Tunisian capital, where he and his brother and his much loved sister Hafida lived with their maternal grandparents – a grandma who provided young Alaïa with solid ideas about human freedom, and a grandpa with a weekly routine that too exerted an influence on boy Alaïa: Thursday evenings he was reading aloud from Arabian Nights for the kids, Fridays he was playing cards at a café while allowing Azzedine to soak in the screened delights at the Ciné-Soir (where an Italian actress’s way of tucking her shorts alone could make him swoon), and Saturdays he took the boy to his station to let him have a zing of real-world policework.

 

However, as Edmund White delineates in Our Paris: Sketches from Memory, there was one specific Thursday each month when an Egyptian superstar performed, and her voice was ritually transmitted on the radio: “On the morning of her monthly recital the young Azzedine would be sent to the local café, which possessed the only radio in town, to reserve a chair as near the radio as possible for his grandfather. There his grandfather would install himself with a jasmine flower behind his ear and sigh and weep as Umm Kulthum improvised verse after verse, hour after hour, of her lovesick ballads. On that day, once a month, no business was conducted throughout the Arab world, all misdeeds were overlooked, and no war could be fought. Umm Kulthum taught Alaïa his first lesson about the power and mystery of female artistry.”

 

A promenade side by side with a beautiful woman in Tunis meant the world to boy Alaïa. Everything from the way she walked to how tastefully her body was enrobed was mentally noted. There’s a passage in Hans Ulrich Obrist’s interview with Alaïa, in the first issue of System magazine, in which he talks about when he was visiting Hafida’s college and how “one of the nuns would give me a little pat on the shoulder, and I felt as if I’d been touched by grace. The nuns still wore cornettes back then, and I thought they were so beautiful because they had such white skin when everyone else was tanned. I’d walk behind them in the street to watch their brown ankles and feet, which contrasted so much with their faces. And I thought the movement of their robes with their swinging crosses was lovely.”

 

Mme Pineau, whom he used to assist when a baby was born, offered a wealth of inspiration with her numerous artbooks and the fashion magazines from Paris. Madame also fancied ordering beautiful things for herself from the grand Parisian department stores. In Susanna Frankel’s Visionaries: Interviews with Fashion Designers, Alaïa speaks about the enchantment of being around his Gallic influencer: “In the evening, after work, she used to sit next to me and place orders for clothes. When the boxes came, we opened them together. I was so happy. I can still remember the little printed cotton summer dresses, the white gloves, the shoes.”

 

Boy Alaïa’s considerate and perceptive disposition and his very certain flair for immersion pertained to an advancing master. He knew that Paris would be where he would live all his days, and he figured that he would do well there after studying as a sculptor at the Institut Supérieur des Beaux-Arts de Tunis. Madame was the one who helped him getting into the art school, in spite of his young age. This was the proper beginning of the boundless succession of marvellous women who were to give Alaïa complete, unprecedented support and adoration throughout the rest of his life. This human fleet of benevolence and refinement would very soon after he had relocated make him realise “how Parisian chic is in fact a question of a person’s way of thinking”.

 

To pay for his art studies, Alaïa assisted a seamstress and did much of the shop’s stitching at home. This piqued the curiosity of two girls who told their wealthy parents about the unfamiliar but obviously gifted young tailor. A cascade of benignant events transpired by virtue of the female jungle telegraph and in late June 1956, when he was twenty-one, Alaïa had attained an apprenticeship at the atelier of Christian Dior in Paris, under the guidance of Technical Director Marguerite Carré. (“She was an incredible woman, she symbolised my vision of the big technician, people like that don’t exist anymore. I was all eyes.”) Alaïa had to leave after only a few days, however, since this was at the height of the Algerian War and it had become too much of an issue among the sour clients that Dior was housing a young Arab.

 

A letter of introduction from the Tunis high society to Tunisian-born Simone Zehrfuss, spouse of the famous architect, was Alaïa’s ticket to the fashionable society of Paris. His first abode in Paris was a small garret next to one of his besties from the Beaux-Arts school, Leïla Menchari, and it was on rue Lord Byron – where Jean-Pierre Melville’s contract killer Jef Costello has his hideaway in Le samouraï (1967) – that he surrounded himself with his little sewing machine, mid-century furniture classics by Jean Prouvé and Charlotte Perriand (gifts from the Zehrfusses) and a host of famous ladies and young models all yearning for his rare designs. Women also so much enjoyed being around Alaïa as he was the shy but winsome oppositeness of Paul Thomas Anderson’s petulant sniveller, Reynolds Woodcock, in Phantom Thread (2017). Add to that that Azzedine Alaïa was always at the helm of everything, entirely, from these salad days of the late 1950s to what would become his final couture show in 2017.

 

It was during the many gatherings with the beau monde at the home of the Zehrfusses that he befriended novelist Louise de Vilmorin. Cues he took from her were in particular “French chic, elegance, allure and savoir-vivre … there were many things to learn, and intellectually it was marvellous.” Although she was almost three times his age, Louise de Vilmorin would beautifully say that having Alaïa as her couturier and confidant was the only looking glass that she ever needed. Alaïa spent his Sundays at de Vilmorin’s estate near Orly Airport as a constant guest at her dinner salons, where he encountered Orson Welles, Jean Cocteau, André Malraux, René Clair and many other luminaries.

 

At the end of the decade – during his three seasons with Guy Laroche on avenue Montaigne, where his technical skills and his profound awareness of haute couture intensified – Alaïa was asked to stay with one of his admirers, Marquise de Mazan, in her vast spaces at Parc Monceau (only a short walk from his first humble dwelling). One of the dinner guests at the Marquise’s was Countess Nicole de Blégiers who became an important patron, but who also invited him to live with her family in 1959. In their lavish homes in the 16th arrondissement, Alaïa took care of the kids and cooked for the whole family after the daily two-hour-long appointments with the dashing yet discreet ladies were over at seven. It was a life of stability and appreciation and everything was coming together for him with the designs that he developed in these residences during the first part of the 1960s:

 

“I was very lucky to meet the Countess de Blégiers,” he voiced. “I became quite a good babysitter, and I made her dresses. It was the end of the Algerian War, and it was difficult for a Tunisian to find a job in France. The countess’s husband gave me his business card to say that I was his ‘protégé’ so they didn’t bother me when they stopped me in the street.”

 

Just before Azzedine Alaïa set up his business at 60 rue de Bellechasse in 1964, which would become his legendary address for the next twenty years, he was living and partying together with a model friend of his. This brief period of external merrymaking also included a custom that the countess had encouraged him to begin with, as a fun way to aid his career: to invite his private clientele along with his friends (who were often the same kinds of people) for dinners. One of his guests was Arletty, the good bad girl Clara in Marcel Carné’s masterpiece Le jour se lève (1939), who he had loved since the days at the Ciné-Soir; how she dressed and the complete way in which she carried herself. He met the star in the flesh in her dressing room at Théâtre de la Renaissance in 1960 and they remained very, very close till the Fin of her life in 1992.

 

At the time that the main curator of the Stockholm exhibition, Olivier Saillard, took over the directorship of the fashion museum Palais Galliera in Paris in 2013, he carried out a long interview with Alaïa before the opening of the maître’s first (and much overdue) hometown retrospective:

 

“With Arletty, I learnt even more of the tricks of Parisian chic that nobody teaches you. She was a very strong influence. My dress with the zip that turns all around the body was born from the one she wore in Hôtel du Nord [1938]. The dresses shaped like troubadours’ tunics and the long gowns that she wears in Les Visiteurs du soir [1942] inspired a number of the outfits in my Autumn/Winter 1988–89 collection. The butterflies of the Autumn/Winter 1991–92 collection are an homage to Arletty and the bodysuit that she wears in the film Tempête [1940]. Her witty words, her effrontery and her insolence dictated some of my principals. She would often say that she was ‘virgin of all decoration’. That made me decide to remove jewellery and accessories from my collections to place the naked garment at the forefront. She was so simple, so full of popular and majestic grandeur. Arletty embodies the Parisienne.”

 

The help and the initiative came from friends, and the backing from Simone Zehrfuss, to enable for Alaïa to set up his first atelier in the city. With the basic five-room apartment (one hundred and forty square metres in all) on the first floor at 60 rue de Bellechasse, Alaïa formed his very ideal way of living (he always slept on a mattress on the floor) and working, combining everything that was needed in one place (and he was fine with having his défilés running through the kitchen). A handful of people were hired, including Alaïa’s factotum Ibrahima Soumaré who would stay with him for the rest of his life. Almost equally loyal were the gutsy mesdames of the monied class who treasured and revelled in the nonconformist/traditionalist Alaïa’s delightful and intricate made-to-measure designs.

 

In the mid-1960s, with the Youthquake movement in full swing, Alaïa was asked by Yves Saint Laurent to design the templates for his famous Mondrian dresses which became a successful synthesis of high fashion and Pop. This was a dreadful time for many of the haute couture houses. In Twiggy in Black and White, the wonder kid recounts a trip she made to Paris for the Daily Sketch after she had become the Face of 1966: “Readers back in Britain would be offered my views on the collections in the form of a letter to Mum. Now it makes me cringe; but I was only sixteen and didn’t know any better. I lasted two days. It was the Balmain show that caused the stink. Monsieur Balmain himself was lovely to me, but his clothes were hardly innovative and Shirley Flack, the journalist whose idea the whole thing was, saw no reason to tone down what I thought. ‘Twiggy’s letter to Mum’ appeared the next day. Balmain’s clothes were fine for someone middle-aged like her, I wrote, but were old-fashioned. Quel Scandale. I was immediately banned by the Chambre Syndicale.”

 

When Cristóbal Balenciaga threw in the towel in 1968, Alaïa received a phone call from Mlle Renée who had worked alongside the Spanish master for decades. She suggested that Alaïa should take hold of what remained at 10 avenue George V of the garments, and rework them according to his own desires. It is true that he filled waste bags of these sublimities, and that he examined them like a scientist – very much as Grandmaster Flash would dismantle a Technics 1200 turntable in the 1970s in order to penetrate the fundamentals of the tool that he was working with – but Alaïa left them as they were, impeccable:

 

“I was stunned by their beauty and by the hand that had created them and seemed present in the dresses still. It was impossible for me to dream of touching these clothes. To intervene in any way on these examples of equilibrium would have been sacrilege, and it appeared to me as a matter of urgency to rescue others. Since many years, I have been buying and receiving the dresses, the coats, the jackets that testify to the great history of fashion. It has become for me somewhat of a matter of state to preserve them, a mark of solidarity towards those who, before me, have had the pleasure and the exigency of the scissors. It is my way of paying homage to all of the craft and the ideas that these garments manifest.”

 

From here on, Alaïa’s collecting of thousands and thousands of pieces of all of his cherished designers from the past (his favourite decades were the 1930s and 50s) went on in correspondence with his own work. At the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa at 18 rue de la Verrerie, a complex of industrial buildings that he bought and moved to in 1987, there are over seven hundred articles by Madame Grès who, like Alaïa, was a trained sculptor. She (like Alaïa) understood the art of perfect drapery – and the life-itself allure of what is taking place in the play between what is revealed and what is concealed – and with her special plis de Grès technique she pleated the knitted silk of her dresses into a silhouette that was both wonderfully modern and timeless as the sculptures of Ancient Greece.

 

He collected Vionnet and absorbed her bias-cut method which created a blessed trinity between fabric, body and movement; Schiaparelli, who (just like Alaïa) loved to work with synthetic fibres along with the most expensive materials and haute couture practices, and to develop new kinds of fabrics together with the industry bests, and (like Alaïa) converted functional clothing elements (such as zippers) into something very else; Jean Patou and Paul Poiret; Adrian who was the star designer of MGM in the 1930s and whose costumes Alaïa bought by the hundreds from a Philadelphia collector, and (just to sample a few of them) the American master Charles James who Alaïa discovered on his first trip to New York City in 1982, when Bergdorf Goodman introduced Alaïa in the US with a runway show. Among his contemporaries he liked Vivienne Westwood and Yohji Yamamoto (and as with Yamamoto he was always dressed in a black outfit that was his uniform). When Marseille’s Maison Mode Méditerranée opened in 1988, Alaïa made a huge contribution by donating one hundred of his own dresses.

 

What was also so good about Azzedine Alaïa was that he wasn’t infatuated by the pomp and circumstance of his profession. “I have never followed fashion. It is women who have dictated my actions. It is necessary to know the academy of their bodies in order to know what they want before they know themselves. As the years passed, I have followed the teachings of their silhouette. The shoulder is essential, the waist primordial. The arch of the back and the backside are capital. The breasts, you can always make them look great. The neck, if it is short, needs to be flattered by a high collar and small shoulder pads,” he told Olivier Saillard.

 

“I like clothes that stay beautiful and eternal, that are not betrayed by details, ornaments, or colours that age them prematurely. Those are the designs that are the simplest yet the most difficult to create. I have created clothes in my mind that I have esteemed to be finished almost ten years after beginning the first toiles. Certain jackets, I am correcting them endlessly, to the great despair of my closest collaborators. There are garments that are made to never be produced. The research is more important.”

 

In 1972, the year after Alaïa had been affirmed as a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, Cécile de Rothschild was having a fitting in Alaia’s atelier and brought along a friend who “wore flat shoes and radiated something very modern” – it was the Swedish fridge and cinematic icon Greta Gustafsson: “Garbo was sitting there, in a big turtleneck with the sleeves pulled down, so that you couldn’t see her hands. I looked at her eyes, her nose, her eyelids. Incredible. She truly was absolutely magnificent. She asked me to make her a large overcoat. I’ve kept the model. She wanted it to be really big, like a military coat, and in blue. She had her own style. I made her jersey sweaters, fitted straight trousers, flat shoes, and three big overcoats.”

 

Alaïa’s diligence and hard work resulted in a train of events which led to his first prêt-à-porter collection in 1979. It was based on a bigtime refusal from the very brand that used every single picture that Guy Bourdin took for them during the spectacular years that the complicated French artist-photographer was absolutely unsurpassable (1972–80). However, when Alaïa presented his commissioned collection for Charles Jourdan, all they could see (while kicking up a fuss) was the kink, fetishism and suppressed violence that was more than evident in Bourdin’s imagery.

 

Sarah Perks, one of the co-curators of the Stockholm show and a longtime staffer at Alaïa, affirms that “People say a lot about his work, that he walks on a tightrope between the woman who is a nun and the whore [laughs]. He designed costumes for the Crazy Horse in Paris that is famous for being sexier than Moulin Rouge. He has sometimes both the head and body totally covered, and he chooses to reveal skin with transparency but always with an added element of modesty.”

 

Alaïa’s newfound main man Thierry Mugler brought the fashion press to the Bellechasse atelier in 1979. For the editors at Elle, it was love at first sight when they lay eyes on Alaïa’s discarded Charles Jourdan collection, and they were craving these things so much that they asked him if they could wear them at the fashion shows. The new decade would bring new connections, steadfast friends, muses, affectionate devotees, a maturation of his business, and in 1981/82 Alaïa burst into view with designs that made him beyond famous. Maison Alaïa was established when the first défilé went through his kitchen in 1983, with three drop-in shows a day for a whole week.

 

“He revisited a lot of the ideas from throughout the different decades of his career. He said that if an idea is good, you have to explore it, explore it, explore it – distil it, and make sure that you have really exhausted the potential of that good idea. He said that good ideas are rare and that you are lucky if you have one in a year. He very much refused the pressure from the fashion industry that expects designers to come up with a hundred new ideas four times a year. It is not the way you make great designs,” explains Sarah Perks and mentions some of the recurrent themes that distinguish Alaïa’s work, “notably the use of leather, the close-to-body silhouette and the inspiration from the natural world of flora and fauna. He used exotic skins from the very beginning of his career, which is often treated in a brut kind of way. He really centred on the scale of the exotic skins with essential focus points which highlight the anatomy of the female body. He also very much drew attention to the back of the body.”

 

The world moves on a woman’s hips – but as Alaïa learned from one of his patrons, the most important part of the attire is the back “because it is the last thing you see when a woman leaves the room, and it is what you remember”.

 

Azzedine Alaïa regarded himself as a bâtisseur – a builder – of dresses, and as François Baudot points out in his profile, “Traditionally, a dress is fitted from the shoulders and a skirt from the waist – they hang, or rather ‘fall’, from these points with varying degrees of success depending on the talent of the designer and the quality of the garment. What Alaïa did, however, was to create clothes which cling, such as his dress made of bound strips. While following the body’s slightest movements, it still manages to retain its original shape. In this way a woman, as a living sculpture, embodies the synthesis of Alaïa’s two vocations as sculptor and fashion designer.”

 

There’s a portrait by Jean-Paul Goude of Alaïa in a balance act between the legs of a supine Maillol sculpture in the Jardin des Tuileries, and the dressmaker is wrapping the naked lady in bandages. His bandage dresses – an idea that he got from Egyptian mummies, and that somewhat paradoxically provide great movability – are accompanied by open slits along the sides which often put the emphasis right on the hips. That year, 1983, the first Alaïa-dedicated store was launched in the US, on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills and, at the other end of the scale, there was a skirt made for French mail order company 3 Suisses so that just about anyone could afford to buy an Alaïa design.

 

One of the many things that Alaïa loved about Mme Pinot was that she schooled him in the history of France. The boy’s favourite parts were the stories about Versailles and the bluebloods who lived there, especially Madame de Pompadour. In 1984, Alaïa moved his business to 17 rue du Parc-Royal (in the vicinity of Musée Picasso), to a townhouse where his silk-stocking favourite once had lived. When Barneys presented Alaïa at the Palladium in New York City, fifty models were parading in his designs to great acclaim, and every one of the one thousand guests wore black to honour the master.

 

On March 2, 1985, the Museum of Contemporary Art of Bordeaux presented A Day with Azzedine Alaïa: Fashion 1980-1985 with almost everything there was to show and discuss about Alaïa. On October 23, he received the “Designer of the Year” and “Collection of the Year” awards from the Minister of Culture at the Palais Garnier, while Grace Jones was performing “La Vie en rose” wearing Alaïa (just like she did in A View to a Kill from the same year). Sarah Perks points at a resplendent dress in a flowing fabric, as magenta in pitch as the Djinn chairs in 2001: A Space Odyssey (1968), that begins with a capuchin hood and ends in a train: “This dress is from the Summer 1986 collection which was shown in October just before M Alaïa was bestowed two ‘Oscars’ at the French Fashion Awards and Grace Jones accompanied him for the ceremony wearing this gown. Obviously, you show the collections six months before they will be in the stores.”

 

The first thing that Aletty blurted in her characteristic way when Alaïa entered her dressing room in 1960 was: “He is short, but he sure is unforgettable.” Alaïa was only a metre and a half tall, and next to his leggy supermodels – who loved his work so much that all they asked for was the currency of his clothes – he looked like Charles Ray abreast of his towering, power dressed sculpture Mannequin (1991) of 244 centimetres.

 

“Alaïa works sometimes late into the night, his mouth full of pins, as he drapes and pulls and turns and twists and dances around the dais like Pygmalion dressing an already transformed and fully alive Galatea,” recalls Edmund White in his Paris chronicle. “I remember one night when the Galatea was a ravishing, pouting, smiling teenager, Naomi Campbell […] who then was just a sumptuously beautiful shy English adolescent. She kept turning obediently as Azzadine ordered her to do, though when he stuck a pin in her she shouted lustily and tapped the tiny maestro on the head.”

 

Perks talks with mirth in her voice about the paternal-filial bond between the couturier and his teeny model: “M Alaïa discovered Naomi Campbell and she first worked for him for the summer 1987 collection, so that would be late 1986 when she was sixteen years old. She lived with him because her mother knew that Azzedine Alaïa would treat her like a father. Naomi was a very spirited person and an anecdote that M Alaïa loved to tell was when Naomi used to sneak out at night, take some sexy outfit from the press collection, and escape through the back door to go to the nightclub Les Bains Douches. And M Alaïa would go and get her in the middle of the night.”

 

One connection that is impossible to understand, however, is how Alaïa could embrace the Phil Collins of the art world. After Alaïa had relocated to his final, and this time huge and highly functional, space at 18 rue de la Verrerie (near Hôtel de Ville) in 1987, Julian Schnabel was once again there to decorate the store at 7 rue de Moussy (situated on the side street to the building), just like he had done with the one in Soho, New York. (Alaïa: “[Julian Schnabel] came to my shop and I’m so embarrassed to say it but I’d never heard of him and when he offered me one of his paintings I just shrugged, but Jacqueline [Beaurang, his then-wife] was so beautiful I thought I’d love to have her wearing any coat in New York so I agreed.”)

 

The bâtisseur had found his ideal residence in Marais. Here he worked like a modern Paul Poiret, creating his pieces directly on a live model. Perks says that Alaïa “almost never made any drawings. He could do every single step of the creation of the garment, from draping the fabric in the very beginning on the model’s body to altering the pattern, stitching, to the last details. The fitting model was always there, seven days a week, until the late hours. He would begin by taking the fabric directly to the fitting model’s body and transfer the fabric to pattern paper, and then give it to [his assistant Éric Sartori] so he could begin with the garment. M Alaïa would bring it back on the model and do one seam at a time, changing millimetre by millimetre, and towards the end he would alter the pattern himself late at night when everybody had left, and it was just him and Ana Carolina Reis. He said that it was the only time that he could concentrate on doing the paper part of the pattern. When he had a good idea, he would scribble on the edge of a pattern paper and keep it in a little box on his table.”

 

After seven in the evening Alaïa used to drink a glass of vodka, take a little Warhol snooze, and then go back to work till six in the morning with the TV on. “He had a huge television in front of his sewing table and on it were National Geographic Channel documentaries about animal life because he loved animals. He had nine cats and five dogs. He wished that he would have had the luxury to have someone come and read books to him because he loved literature, but he never had the time to read.”

 

Savouring Alaïa’s quintessential decade at Sven-Harry’s in Stockholm gets you thinking about the overblown and hairsprayed 1980s and how Alaïa’s work was and forever is another thing altogether. Time wasn’t making him; he was making time.

 

The 1980s ended with a fanfare for Alaïa when he gained French citizenship, contrariwise to his 1990s which started with a crushing blow. Alaïa’s struggles with his sister’s death in 1992 were so deep that he, for years, withdrew from most aspects of what he loved so much about his profession. Instead, he cultivated his skills: “My knowledge of technique has been an instrument of analysis and rehabilitation,” Alaïa explained. “I do not believe that I have cast aside a single one of the ideas that I have pursued since the beginning. I feel rather more that I have placed them in an evolution. The technical knowledge that has always deeply interested me has enabled me to drive ideas forward, to take them down other roads and create new leads, each time with a greater exactitude and refinement.”

 

1996 – the year when there were rumours that Alaïa (quite ironically) had rejected an offer to take over as couturier at Dior – was the start of museum retrospectives on Alaïa’s work. Maison Alaïa was resumed in 1999 thanks to the vast encouragement that he received from one of his dearest friends, Carla Sozzani. The runway presentations returned in 2002 with an haute couture show, and he would produce two more haute couture shows under the glass ceiling, where Fondation Azzedine Alaïa is today, with the help of the workforce from Yves Saint Laurent who retired in 2002.

 

Sarah Perks cautiously lifts up a skirt and starts to count the layers and the materials – “We have the laser-cut cotton, a silk crinoline, a silk fibre with horse hair …” – and walks over to the next piece: “This is the dress with the fantastic knitted lace from M Alaïa’s last couture show in 2017. And this dress is quite unusual because we do not often see sparkles of bling-bling with Alaïa, his embellishments are more subtle or functional, such as in the zips and the eyelets, and more in the textures as in this beautiful, quilted embroidery with a little bit of whimsy. The lace came out of the knitting machine in one piece. And also, the craftmanship in the draping and the gathering of the velvet, and the interesting mixture of textures and textiles that you often see in M Alaïa’s work.”

 

When Galleria Borghese in Rome exhibited Azzedine Alaïa in 2015, the curators of Couture/Sculpture did a beautiful job to emphasise his sixty-five dresses’ sisterhood relation to the classic sculptures in the museum. Alaïa maintained that “I can safely say that my clothes are undatable; they are made to stand the test of time. Since arriving in Paris in the 1950s, I believe that I have never responded to any other demands or imperatives than those of the women who surrounded me and continue to surround me still.”

 

Fashion – it is right before your eyes, the beautiful and eternal.


Photo: John Scarisbrick/Sven-Harrys konstmuseum.

Master of Couture – Azzedine Alaïa at Sven-Harry’s Art Museum in Stockholm through March 16, 2025.